Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so the more i read the more confused i am...

so im just gonna ask the masters to give me a hand...

Why is your username Joe and &33? Is it Joe and Ampersand33? Is it Joe and and 33? Do you stutter? Is it a typo? Is it relevant?

Again I remind you to read the above mentioned disclaimer.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, great advice already given, only thing I can add is depending what your power goals are you can consider getting a R34 GTT SMIC instead of FMIC. If you don't have high power goals then that is a great option. However in saying this, once you do a few mods the bug will get you so you then want more and will end up needing a FMIC.......

Why is your username Joe and &33? Is it Joe and Ampersand33? Is it Joe and and 33? Do you stutter? Is it a typo? Is it relevant?

Again I remind you to read the above mentioned disclaimer.

I have also wondered this. ;)

well my thoughts are that its a typo and he was meaning to have it "Joe and R33"......just my thoughts.....

ahh yes the power bug will bite you one way or another mate....so its proably better off going with a FMIC and not really worry about a SMIC.....when i was changing my smic to a fmic i was like WOW the FMIC is really really tiny compared to the FMIC......and if your going to boost it up then my advice which is what i am going to get done soon is get a electronic boost controller and a aftermarket fuel pump......and safely enjoy the boost to 10 psi and i personally wont go anything higher then 12 psi.....10 psi is a safe boost level and is more reliable

Joe, dont listen to these fools.

All you need is:

an atmo blow off valve - $150

4 inch exhaust tip (its the only bit people see) - $50

Huge sub and amp combo - $200 on ebay or similar

Chrome hubcaps (much cheaper than rims) - $40 ar Super Cheap Auto

and spend $60 on brand name stickers for your doors (Trust Greddy HKS etc)

All up $500 and youl'll have a fully sick ride.

Remember to drag off every car you see at the lights, keep the drivers window down and the sub turned up. With practice you may even master the art of driving with the seat all the way back and fully reclined. (chicky babes love this)

Joe, dont listen to these fools.

All you need is:

an atmo blow off valve - $150

4 inch exhaust tip (its the only bit people see) - $50

Huge sub and amp combo - $200 on ebay or similar

Chrome hubcaps (much cheaper than rims) - $40 ar Super Cheap Auto

and spend $60 on brand name stickers for your doors (Trust Greddy HKS etc)

All up $500 and youl'll have a fully sick ride.

Remember to drag off every car you see at the lights, keep the drivers window down and the sub turned up. With practice you may even master the art of driving with the seat all the way back and fully reclined. (chicky babes love this)

Dont forget racing stripes. Oh oh and DONT lower it whatever you do! Those stickers are about 5rwkw each at LEAST.

;)

There is nothing unsafe about 12psi and that is reliable too i had mine boosted to 14 drove like that for a year before it made funny noises

lol Guy so true

well my thoughts are that its a typo and he was meaning to have it "Joe and R33"......just my thoughts.....

ahh yes the power bug will bite you one way or another mate....so its proably better off going with a FMIC and not really worry about a SMIC.....when i was changing my smic to a fmic i was like WOW the FMIC is really really tiny compared to the FMIC......and if your going to boost it up then my advice which is what i am going to get done soon is get a electronic boost controller and a aftermarket fuel pump......and safely enjoy the boost to 10 psi and i personally wont go anything higher then 12 psi.....10 psi is a safe boost level and is more reliable

There is nothing unsafe about 12psi and that is reliable too i had mine boosted to 14 drove like that for a year before it made funny noises

lol Guy so true

it really depends on the condish of the turbo i guess! a mate of mine has done the same as you, run it at 14 for over a year now and everytime i drive it still feels very good, no problems so far! unlike mine, the old owner must have boossted it and so! so when i was running 14 the bearing shat itself on the second day

if he goes all out and puts enough stickers on it, it will lower itself.

:D

Don't forget the mandantory LED lights for the windscreen washer squirters!

Thats another 2-3rwkw

:D

Oh ... and have a 'fake' roll cage made up with exhaust bends! :D

Edited by RubyRS4
hahaha also there is cardboard estra wide spoilers and side skirts!!

hahahahaha

also with the name...

yeah i did a typo and i dunno how to change it back now... :D

PM one of the admins, im sure one of them will be nice enough to change it for you. Then again arent they all the greatest :D:D

Also, remember to have your right arm hanging out the window and left hand on the wheel at 1 o'clock staring down anyone that dares to look your way(yes I'm talking about that elderly lady over there)... makes you look sick... and looking sick = kw :D

Also, remember to have your right arm hanging out the window and left hand on the wheel at 1 o'clock staring down anyone that dares to look your way(yes I'm talking about that elderly lady over there)... makes you look sick... and looking sick = kw :D

and if your ever losing a drag against a VN, yell out "f**k the po-po", instant kilowatts, its like a NOS effect

but back to a serious note, there is MORE than enough information here to get you to the power you want.

but first, cooling and flow, cooling and flow.

Edited by Damo_R34

dont forget to also put chromes wiper thingys on.....they = kw too bro.....and you got to have a fully sick subwoofer mate.....neons galore.......and all those things hanging from your rear view mirror.....race pedals....they all equal to mad street credz mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...