Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so the more i read the more confused i am...

so im just gonna ask the masters to give me a hand...

Why is your username Joe and &33? Is it Joe and Ampersand33? Is it Joe and and 33? Do you stutter? Is it a typo? Is it relevant?

Again I remind you to read the above mentioned disclaimer.

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, great advice already given, only thing I can add is depending what your power goals are you can consider getting a R34 GTT SMIC instead of FMIC. If you don't have high power goals then that is a great option. However in saying this, once you do a few mods the bug will get you so you then want more and will end up needing a FMIC.......

Why is your username Joe and &33? Is it Joe and Ampersand33? Is it Joe and and 33? Do you stutter? Is it a typo? Is it relevant?

Again I remind you to read the above mentioned disclaimer.

I have also wondered this. ;)

well my thoughts are that its a typo and he was meaning to have it "Joe and R33"......just my thoughts.....

ahh yes the power bug will bite you one way or another mate....so its proably better off going with a FMIC and not really worry about a SMIC.....when i was changing my smic to a fmic i was like WOW the FMIC is really really tiny compared to the FMIC......and if your going to boost it up then my advice which is what i am going to get done soon is get a electronic boost controller and a aftermarket fuel pump......and safely enjoy the boost to 10 psi and i personally wont go anything higher then 12 psi.....10 psi is a safe boost level and is more reliable

Joe, dont listen to these fools.

All you need is:

an atmo blow off valve - $150

4 inch exhaust tip (its the only bit people see) - $50

Huge sub and amp combo - $200 on ebay or similar

Chrome hubcaps (much cheaper than rims) - $40 ar Super Cheap Auto

and spend $60 on brand name stickers for your doors (Trust Greddy HKS etc)

All up $500 and youl'll have a fully sick ride.

Remember to drag off every car you see at the lights, keep the drivers window down and the sub turned up. With practice you may even master the art of driving with the seat all the way back and fully reclined. (chicky babes love this)

Joe, dont listen to these fools.

All you need is:

an atmo blow off valve - $150

4 inch exhaust tip (its the only bit people see) - $50

Huge sub and amp combo - $200 on ebay or similar

Chrome hubcaps (much cheaper than rims) - $40 ar Super Cheap Auto

and spend $60 on brand name stickers for your doors (Trust Greddy HKS etc)

All up $500 and youl'll have a fully sick ride.

Remember to drag off every car you see at the lights, keep the drivers window down and the sub turned up. With practice you may even master the art of driving with the seat all the way back and fully reclined. (chicky babes love this)

Dont forget racing stripes. Oh oh and DONT lower it whatever you do! Those stickers are about 5rwkw each at LEAST.

;)

There is nothing unsafe about 12psi and that is reliable too i had mine boosted to 14 drove like that for a year before it made funny noises

lol Guy so true

well my thoughts are that its a typo and he was meaning to have it "Joe and R33"......just my thoughts.....

ahh yes the power bug will bite you one way or another mate....so its proably better off going with a FMIC and not really worry about a SMIC.....when i was changing my smic to a fmic i was like WOW the FMIC is really really tiny compared to the FMIC......and if your going to boost it up then my advice which is what i am going to get done soon is get a electronic boost controller and a aftermarket fuel pump......and safely enjoy the boost to 10 psi and i personally wont go anything higher then 12 psi.....10 psi is a safe boost level and is more reliable

There is nothing unsafe about 12psi and that is reliable too i had mine boosted to 14 drove like that for a year before it made funny noises

lol Guy so true

it really depends on the condish of the turbo i guess! a mate of mine has done the same as you, run it at 14 for over a year now and everytime i drive it still feels very good, no problems so far! unlike mine, the old owner must have boossted it and so! so when i was running 14 the bearing shat itself on the second day

if he goes all out and puts enough stickers on it, it will lower itself.

:D

Don't forget the mandantory LED lights for the windscreen washer squirters!

Thats another 2-3rwkw

:D

Oh ... and have a 'fake' roll cage made up with exhaust bends! :D

Edited by RubyRS4
hahaha also there is cardboard estra wide spoilers and side skirts!!

hahahahaha

also with the name...

yeah i did a typo and i dunno how to change it back now... :D

PM one of the admins, im sure one of them will be nice enough to change it for you. Then again arent they all the greatest :D:D

Also, remember to have your right arm hanging out the window and left hand on the wheel at 1 o'clock staring down anyone that dares to look your way(yes I'm talking about that elderly lady over there)... makes you look sick... and looking sick = kw :D

Also, remember to have your right arm hanging out the window and left hand on the wheel at 1 o'clock staring down anyone that dares to look your way(yes I'm talking about that elderly lady over there)... makes you look sick... and looking sick = kw :D

and if your ever losing a drag against a VN, yell out "f**k the po-po", instant kilowatts, its like a NOS effect

but back to a serious note, there is MORE than enough information here to get you to the power you want.

but first, cooling and flow, cooling and flow.

Edited by Damo_R34

dont forget to also put chromes wiper thingys on.....they = kw too bro.....and you got to have a fully sick subwoofer mate.....neons galore.......and all those things hanging from your rear view mirror.....race pedals....they all equal to mad street credz mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...