Jump to content
SAU Community

Standard Boost Solenoid On Turbo Upgrade

blitza

By blitza,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

blitza Collaborator

blitza

Posted
Posted

Hi people on SAU,

I'm doing my first turbo upgrade and everything has gone relatively smoothly, but I need all of your help with a little problem I have come accross.

I am putting on a HKS 3037 pro s turbo kit onto my 34, and i dont know what to do with the boost lines that go upto the solenoid and i guess off to the ECU. Do I have to build these into the lines onto the hose that runs from the actuator to the compressor housing, or can i just take out the soleniod all together??? Does the ECU need that boost reading? Or was it just for the two stage boost setup on the old turbo?

I was running standard boost on my standard turbo before the upgrade, and want to run around 1.1-1.2 bar on the new one.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers

cheez Mentor

cheez

Posted
Posted

is the 3037 an external gated turbo or does it use internal gate? if its external then just block the old line to the ecu and use the spring in the gate to dictate the boost.

i fits internal gate still block the lines from the olsd solenoid and use just 1 line from the gate to the plenum if i remembered right. eiether way the old solenoid isnt needed.

btw if it is internal gate worth spending some money on the hks adjustable actuator.

hope that helps you out a bit

blitza Collaborator

blitza

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah its an internal gate - the 3037 comes with the HKS adjustable actuator. Cheers for the help. if i disconnect the soleniod will the ECU chuck a mental? of will it still operate fine? I'm using a standard ECU that will be remapped in a week or two when i get it tuned.

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
yeah its an internal gate - the 3037 comes with the HKS adjustable actuator. Cheers for the help. if i disconnect the soleniod will the ECU chuck a mental? of will it still operate fine? I'm using a standard ECU that will be remapped in a week or two when i get it tuned.

Just disconnect the stock solenoid, it probably wouldnt really work as intended with the 3037 anyway. The ecu wont know the difference. Are you using the stock ecu?

blitza Collaborator

blitza

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
i hope not...

yeah I will be/am. As it says in earlier posts, I will be getting it remapped in a week or two.

I will unplug the standard solenoid and see how she goes when i fire her up.

Cheers for the help

Edited by blitza
nizmo_freek Experienced

nizmo_freek

Posted
Posted

Yea just unplugg it and remove all the vaccum lines, the car will run fine without it plugged in, then just hook up a vaccum line from the hks internal wastegate to your intercooler piping, or put in a boost controller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...