Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 192
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

as per discussions earlier really interested in changing my gearing to GTR spec

and i take it the belts are 100% no frays what so ever and is it easy enough to change buckles

Yeah no change as such required, just had the old ones machined.

yeah keen on belts just looking into what i need to do to take my buckles off and just swap belts

sorry if im harping on about this but my limited knowledge of diff's is possibly proving to be a downfall

it was my (maybe misguided) belief that if i wanted to change final drive ratio's i would need to match to front diff to what the rear diff is running

so i dont get how you have done it so cheaply maybe you might like to PM me with what i would need to complete such a job and i wouldnt be doing the work just informing the tuner what needs to be done

UPDATED PARTS LEFT

momo steering wheel with boss kit - $70

speco boost guage - $10

roof handels - $5

hose clamps (10) - free

indicator/light stalk - $5

foot rest - $5

glove box - $5

ac unit - $50

centre console with white hand brake lever - $30

seat belt set - $20

interior plastic around rear window - $10 all bits

kick panels - $10 ea

stock dash with 115337km - $50

door trims - $20 ea

roof carpet - $20

works emotion xt7 Multistud 4/5 18”x8.5 +32 with bridgestone Potenza re01 235 all round, includes works light weight wheel nuts- $1300

dashboard - $5

bilstien suspension with sway bars and drift pinapples - $1200

gtr gearbox - $500

rb25det out of stagea (has sump with front diff gtr 4.11 gears) turbo, computer and loom - $1500

front right and left plastic mud guards - $10 ea

front windscreen plastic bit - $5

cheers,

Michael

UPDATED PARTS LEFT

momo steering wheel with boss kit - $70

speco boost guage - $10

roof handels - $5

hose clamps (10) - free

indicator/light stalk - $5

foot rest - $5

glove box - $5

ac unit - $50

centre console with white hand brake lever - $30

seat belt set - $20

interior plastic around rear window - $10 all bits

kick panels - $10 ea

door trims - $20 ea

roof carpet - $20

dashboard - $5

bilstien suspension with sway bars and drift pinapples - $1200

gtr gearbox - $500

rb25det out of stagea (has sump with front diff gtr 4.11 gears) turbo, computer and loom - $1500

front right and left plastic mud guards - $10 ea

front windscreen plastic bit - $5

cheers,

Michael

what momo wheel is it i need a boss kit so im interested in the whole lot as i cant get my horn working with my wheel

im told i have hicas boss kits :P

and does it align up straight as the 2 kits i have dont :laugh: :laugh:

what momo wheel is it i need a boss kit so im interested in the whole lot as i cant get my horn working with my wheel

im told i have hicas boss kits :P

and does it align up straight as the 2 kits i have dont :blink::P

Unsure of model, but is all black, approx 30cm dia and has 2 inbuilt buttons. One at 3 o'clock and the other at 9 o'clock.

Lines straight with the boss kit

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...