Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I had the gearbox reconditioned in my R33 gtst recently. It used to have problems crunching going into 4th and 5th if you didn't let the revs drop and this was fixed which I'm pretty happy about.

There's still a few things that are bothering me though which didn't really improve:

- Still a bit notchy if you shift quickly. Much better if you give it a half second before pushing through.

- Used to be a bit noisy when idling in neutral. Now it's a lot more noisy (especially noticeable from the outside). The guy that did the recondition claims the gears don't mesh very precisely on these boxes and hence the noise.

- Sometimes won't go into reverse. After you blip the clutch goes in ok.

I have the redline lightweight shockproof oil in it now.

I guess what I'd like to know is whether all these sound normal for this gearbox. Should the recondition have made a bigger difference?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216657-gearbox-recondition/
Share on other sites

Actually that seems a little odd to me. No the gearbox really shouldn't make any noticable noise especially with new bearings etc in. Maybe talk to another gearbox guy. What did they actually recondition?

also - did they tell you to run redline in it? Its not a great idea especially in a new gearbox. Redline themselves don't recommend it for synchro boxes and most people only use it to mask worn synchros in the first place. Since you have new synchros (i assume) you should just run a normal gearbox oil.

Hey Guys,

I had the gearbox reconditioned in my R33 gtst recently. It used to have problems crunching going into 4th and 5th if you didn't let the revs drop and this was fixed which I'm pretty happy about.

There's still a few things that are bothering me though which didn't really improve:

- Still a bit notchy if you shift quickly. Much better if you give it a half second before pushing through.

- Used to be a bit noisy when idling in neutral. Now it's a lot more noisy (especially noticeable from the outside). The guy that did the recondition claims the gears don't mesh very precisely on these boxes and hence the noise.

- Sometimes won't go into reverse. After you blip the clutch goes in ok.

I have the redline lightweight shockproof oil in it now.

I guess what I'd like to know is whether all these sound normal for this gearbox. Should the recondition have made a bigger difference?

Cheers

Just out of curiosity, how much did you spend on re-conditioning your box?

Hey Guys,

I had the gearbox reconditioned in my R33 gtst recently. It used to have problems crunching going into 4th and 5th if you didn't let the revs drop and this was fixed which I'm pretty happy about.

There's still a few things that are bothering me though which didn't really improve:

- Still a bit notchy if you shift quickly. Much better if you give it a half second before pushing through.

- Used to be a bit noisy when idling in neutral. Now it's a lot more noisy (especially noticeable from the outside). The guy that did the recondition claims the gears don't mesh very precisely on these boxes and hence the noise.

- Sometimes won't go into reverse. After you blip the clutch goes in ok.

I have the redline lightweight shockproof oil in it now.

I guess what I'd like to know is whether all these sound normal for this gearbox. Should the recondition have made a bigger difference?

Cheers

Hi there ,I agree with duncan that a new or re-coed gearbox should not use redline don't worry about what you've already read ,it is too slipperry to allow your synchros and more importantly your synchro hubs to work properly I found that out from an expert gtr gearbox repairer,I would replace it immediately with a good quality oil such as VMX80 to avoid the same problems you re-coed it for re-occurring.

I am re-coeing mine for the same reason and it is a costly exercise so you only want to do it once,ask yourself should you be having synchro problems when they have been re-placed?Also did they replace the thrust bearing in the clutch while the box was out,generally these will make the external noise you describe or you may have a twin plate clutch which are inherrently noisy also but I guess you would have noticed that before the re-co wouldn't you.

Just as a matter of interest what did the job cost you as I'm shopping around at the moment and would like a ball-park figure if you don't mind.Cheers Grey Pearl.

they may have re-used your bearings instead of using new items which could explain the noise, $1500 did that include r&r of the box?

The syncros are a little slow on these boxes when shifting easily IMO

Edited by mattymagoo22

I guess that's not the problem then. My whirring noise is only there when the clutch is engaged (foot off the pedal). It goes away when I depress the pedal though. (You only really hear it distinctly in neutral though since there's a lot more noise from everything when accelerating).

dont use redline in rebiult boxes LOL thats a load of rubbish, we use the blue redline in all our gtr and race boxes we biuld Works much better than standard, what a load of sh#t
Hi There mate, All comments posted on here are only opinions gathered in real life experiences with our own cars,or collated information gathered on forums in order to learn from others mistakes or successes,and include our opinions based on that info collected and processed,so theres no need in flaming people for putting their views in response to others problems and questions.

Ultimately the person requiring answers will do what they like with the info posted for their benefit and really we giving the answers are only giving them info to process and decide what sounds right for them to do as we have done when we ask questions.

I have given what I believe is good advice on not using smurfs blood in gtr boxes,especially new, recoed,or synchroed,you probably being a racer use some type of after market dog box with or without synchros and that oil probably does the job in that application as I have stated in my other post on this oil,race teams are prepared to pull engines and boxes diffs etc down to repair and modify as regularly as necessary as opposed to street users like myself who have to deal with synchro issues, slower changes and not wanting noisy boxes in order to minimise downtime and save expense,so for me it's horses for courses and of course all of my statements are only my opinion,and these forums do allow for that but are opposed to non constructive flaming and arguing.

I have a peacemaking attitude and only wish to help other people on this forum to enjoy our common interest and learn,therefore I accept your opinion as I hope you will accept mine whether we agree or not, I'm not trying to force my point of view on anyone only air it for others to consider,fair enough.Grey Pearl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...