Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just for referance.. the "nvh" is a result of either an unbalanced shaft or incorect driveline angle. with a one piece shaft the amout of angular diferance is around 2 degrees. (diff pinion/gearbox output shaft angle)

has to be a paralelagram.

the more pieces the shaft is the less acurate or critical the angle has to be to not induce vibrations over around 80kph.

so.. with a 2 piece shaft you can be 4 degree out. 4 degrees on a 1 piece shaft would blurr the rear view mirror over 60kph lol.

a one piece shaft is better. lighter and more direct. well suited to racing with dog engagement boxes etc etc.

since our cars dont have a live axel you can make the angle very close. (shimming the box up or down.)

just for referance.. the "nvh" is a result of either an unbalanced shaft or incorect driveline angle. with a one piece shaft the amout of angular diferance is around 2 degrees. (diff pinion/gearbox output shaft angle)

has to be a paralelagram.

the more pieces the shaft is the less acurate or critical the angle has to be to not induce vibrations over around 80kph.

so.. with a 2 piece shaft you can be 4 degree out. 4 degrees on a 1 piece shaft would blurr the rear view mirror over 60kph lol.

a one piece shaft is better. lighter and more direct. well suited to racing with dog engagement boxes etc etc.

since our cars dont have a live axel you can make the angle very close. (shimming the box up or down.)

So are you in favour of one piece in gtr's without dogboxes,just curious??Cheers Grey Pearl.

Jump in on the group buy!!

i need some more people!

but do your research, i've done shit all i just want one because the price is good and i am trying to get my car as light as possible..

and the effects of one piece shaft dont bother me as its probably never going to get road registered again. and i like noise.

Edited by Angus Smart
  • 3 weeks later...

I just got my 1 peice put in late last week and it feels great. It seems to be really smooth and responsive. I thought it would be more jerky because it had no play because it is one solid shaft but it is alot better than the shagged two peice. I haven't really noticed any harmonics either and I have done some highway driving.

Last weeks of the group buy now, so if you want one people get in now,

credit card payments will be accepted, and they are now down to $1400 for 2000hp shaft delivered AU $$ not US $$ anymore

end plug..........

Edited by Angus Smart

Just picked up my new custom 2 piece tailshaft from hardy spicer. Wont be running it for a few days but if looks are anything to go by its a winner. massive unis, thicker wall tubing, heavier yolk. All brand spanking including centere bearing for around 1. kay. My mate has ben running this on his race only 33 for a year or so now and its been bomb proof to date.

Looking forward to it as I am over the vibrations in the car caused by non serviceable uni joints.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...