Jump to content
SAU Community

Eoi: Greddy, Cp, Arp, Garrett, Cometic, Tomei


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a friend in the US who has just started a website selling performance parts for everything "RB"

www.rawbrokerage.com

Im gathering some interest for a group buy on some items he is selling.

Greddy Plenums

Garrett Turbochargers

CP Pistons

ARP Bolts

Cometic Gaskets

Tomei

The more i can order the cheaper it will be. I dont have prices at the moment as we are seeing how much interest we can get.

But if you go to the website all the parts on offer are very cheap,so only further reductions in prices can be had in the group buy.

CHEERS

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you are rebuilding an engine or doing some extensive engine mods,you need to look here first as i dont think you will find anything cheaper.

Poncams group buy sounds good.

However it is very important you know which type suits your car as i have a series 2 which was built in 97,the CAS change happend in Sep 97 and i ended up buying the wrong ones :D

All pre Sep 97 builds require the "series 1" type cams,even though you might have a series 2. Confusing i know.

RB25DET that is.

Ill get onto it and let you all know.

Thanks for all of your enquiries!

Turbocharger prices are now up: Garrett Turbochargers modified by PTB Precision Turbos (America) Modification is only to compressor.

GT28RS - $1496 Delivered

GT3071R - $1496 Delivered

GT3076R - $1545 Delivered

GT35R (GT3582RL) - $1612.50

(Let me know if you need any larger turbos) (These are all externally waste gated.Internals are $75 extra)

Also offering PTB Precision Turbo,Turbochargers.These are quick response journal bearing turbochargers.

SC50 450-460hp - $983 Delivered

SC60 580-600hp - $983 Delivered

and on up depending on what the power goals are.. ~$1210 for them. Delivered

These prices are at 3 or more so i will need 3 orders to get them at this price.These are in AU dollars and are excluding shipping.

I will get a shipping price on 3 turbochargers very soon.I will only place an order when i have 3 orders from you.

Look forward to hearing from you. :cheers:

how much for a garrett gt3076R with a .82 4bolt exhaust housing.. t3 flange, externally gated?

cheers :cheers:

Im pretty sure LTHLRB is reading my mind lol. .. And Sheng too i see lol

very very interested in the same turb if the price is indeed only $1452.50

also interested in greddy intake plenum to suit rb25det.

When is the group buy happening. Like when do we need to pay??

EDIT.....i must be blind. for sum reason thought u guys had written gt3582 haha. my bad peeps, ignore me lol

Edited by tm_r33

hey mate i was looking at the prices on his website.

the price he has on the gt28 on website is cheaper then the price he gave you.

for the gt3071R its the same as the website.

try n see if u can haggle better price then his normal pricing for multiple purchases.

Edited by tets
hey mate i was looking at the prices on his website.

the price he has on the gt28 on website is cheaper then the price he gave you.

for the gt3071R its the same as the website.

try n see if u can haggle better price then his normal pricing for multiple purchases.

Those website prices are in US dollars mate.The prices i have posted are in AU dollars.

i know mate i used a currency converter

your price was

GT28RS - $1336

GT3071R - $1336

on site it is

GT28RS 1,131.12USD = 1,208.38 AUD

GT3071R - 1,250.99USD = 1,336.43 AUD

currency exchange rate used is 0.936067 so i might be a bit off.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...