Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Im picking up a series 1 RB30 block,does the series 1 have oil squirters or is it the series 2 that has them? (piston)

No RB30's that I have ever seen have block mounted oil squirters, that's Commodore RB30E, Commodore RB30ET, Nissan Skyline RB30, Series 1 or Series 2. They all have the basic 1980's style conrod oil holes.

Is the series 1 block a good block to use in a 25/30 combo?

Any good block is a good block to use.

Cheers

Gary

there is another block that can be used, but it does require a fair ammount of work to the block to be able to adopt a twin cam head,its do-able and it weighs about 30ks heavier than a standard rb30 block, the cylinder walls are a shitload thicker than a conventional rb30 block and will last well over the 1000 wheel hp mark.....

this particular block comes with piston oil squiters.

2jz is in trouble now....

there is another block that can be used, but it does require a fair ammount of work to the block to be able to adopt a twin cam head,its do-able and it weighs about 30ks heavier than a standard rb30 block, the cylinder walls are a shitload thicker than a conventional rb30 block and will last well over the 1000 wheel hp mark.....

this particular block comes with piston oil squiters.

2jz is in trouble now....

And this mystery block is......?

And this mystery block is......?

My guess is RD28T, 2.8 litre (2825cc) turbo-charged diesel 6-cyl, bore: 85mm, stroke: 83mm.

I looked at it about 6 years ago, there is a lot of work required to fit the RB30 crank (86 mm stroke) and conrods. Plus the cylinder head studs don't line up with an RB25/26 head. The water jacket needs modifying and the oil feed will need some external help.

Cheers

Gary

thats teh 1, deisel, runs somthing like 22:1 compression. found in the nissan partol 92 models.... there is about 4 to 5 grand in block modification, there is a rear water jacket that needs to be welded up, and also 3 oil returns dont line up, need to modify the head aswell to compensate

Its too hard to fit oil jets to a RB30, I know of one shop that used five blocks before he found one that could take all size jets. The sand cast blocks of the RB30 was just to inconsistant with its core shift during casting for consistant fitting of the jets

alrite bud, you know everything

dont take it to heart mate, just saying, there are plenty of high powered RB30's out there, and its alot of work to get the RD28 block going with the 3 litre innards. i havent really heard of RB30 blocks letting go, bar those extreme cases of problems (tuning, oil contro, whatever), or extreme horsepower, but even with the latter there isnt an abudance of supporting evidence, not that i've seen anyway

  • 2 weeks later...

A friend of mine has a 25/30 setup.

Spec's are as follows,

STD Series 2 Block

STD rods and pistons (Motor has not been apart since god know's when)

RB25 head

STD Head ports

STD intake manifold

set of small cams

STD rb25 EX manifold

GT3540 0.86 rear

Haltech e11v2

044 pump

STD R33 box

H/D clutch

made 480HP on 20PSI pump fuel

Daily drive for the last 2 years @ 20psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...