Jump to content
SAU Community

Please Help! Vic R34 Gtr Engine # Doesn't Match?!?!


Recommended Posts

Hi I am planning to buy a R34 GTR private sale.

The steel plate with the VIN/Engine number in the rear left engine bay is stamped/engraved.

I read on this forum that if it is engraved then it might be stolen - factory plates have the details PRINTED, not engraved on them.

The VIN matches what Vicroads tells me, but the engine number is not the same as that stamped on the plate. The guy told me not to pay any attention to that as that was the stamp in Japan, and the engine number would be different in Australia?!?!?!

He is sure the engine hasn't been swapped.

The compliance plate is a red/mauve printed plate on the left hand side of the engine bay, about halfway down.

Just wondering what you guys think about this, is it dodgy? I was originally planning to buy it in the next few days.

Cheers. Any advice would be greatly welcome.

GEt the engine number off the block and call vic roads. If it has been registered before they will have record of it and can also tell you if it's a stolen motor.

The original engine number will also be on one of the ID tags in the engine bay. check that the number on the block matches that tag.

Engraved VINs are fine.

I've had a few cars like this.

And even if the engine number doesn't match (provided it passes a 'stolen' check) that's fine also, the engine could have simply been replaced (however, whether

you want to buy a car with a swapped RB26 is a different issue.)

Thanks that's good advice.

Dave1200, do you know where I can find this engine ID tag in the engine bay of a 2001 Series 2 R34 GTR non-vspec???

I didn't see any other tags apart from the VIN plate and compliance plate, but I wasn't looking for any, so I might have missed it.

Cheers.

Thanks that's good advice.

Dave1200, do you know where I can find this engine ID tag in the engine bay of a 2001 Series 2 R34 GTR non-vspec???

I didn't see any other tags apart from the VIN plate and compliance plate, but I wasn't looking for any, so I might have missed it.

Cheers.

Dave is right, it will be on the block also. Try the front to start with underneath the cams but if not either side by down through the gaps.

Found this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/N1...umber+R34+where

It might pay to use the software some of the guys have access to on here, think it is nissfast.

Can you PM me the car out of interest please. Don't worry not going to buy it instead!

if you call 131171 and use the prompts to check a vehicle....all you need to do is say the reg number and the recorded voice at the other end will tell you the VIN,engine number,date of reg expiry and if it been through the VIV system ect.......its a 24 hour system so you can do it anytime.....just give them the reg and it will sing like elvis giving anyone the details of your vehicle,i actually think its a breach privacy myself and shouldnt be allowed.....imagine the amount of false-e-fying you could do and shit you could get innocent ppl in

Edited by ylwgtr2

Before you hand over your hard earned. If you suspect it is stolen, look into it as much as you possibly can and if you find it doesnt match up then report the seller or just forget about it and look elsewhere, its not worth the loss if it turns out to be stolen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...