Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i just need some help setting up my car. recently i have spun a bearing on my r33 gtr its almost finished being rebuilt and i dont know how much boost i can run and what power i could be getting???

Mods

• Full engine rebuild blue printed bottom end

• ACL race bearings big end and main

• Aries forged pistons 1mm oversize block deck/milled/bored and honed

• Eagle forged rods

• ARP head stud kit

• 2 x HKS 2530 turbos

• N1 oil pump

• MLS 5 layer steel gasket

• Recondition head

• Ported exhaust manifold

• Custom twin dump pipes

• HKS super dragger exhaust

• Microtech computer

• Trust twin entry intercooler

So can anyone tell me what boost i should run and what power i could be getting im looking at about 320+RWKW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217635-rb26-rebuilt/
Share on other sites

You don't mention what you have for a fuel system.

With your mods you can pretty well go where you like if you can get sufficient fuel and a clutch that will hold up.

Have a scan through the RB26 mods list and you will get a good idea but for ~320 rwkw you will probably need bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump and run anywhere from 1 to 1.4 bar to get your target depending on who is tuning it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217635-rb26-rebuilt/#findComment-3841305
Share on other sites

^^^ cheers

how long can the motor hold 25psi for, will it blow up??

not if i built it...hehe

my last engine with 2530's saw 34psi and made 467kw at the tyres...on the dyno

and ran low 10 sec passes on 28psi for 3 years until.....N1 oil pump shat itself launching at 9500rpm

rev's will kill your engine before boost will (provided its properly tuned)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217635-rb26-rebuilt/#findComment-3843617
Share on other sites

In terms of you wont make 440rwkw on PULP regardless due to needing decent fuel, then you need good ignition etc, its a domino effect

my interest relates to your statement of running 22-24psi then spark breaking down, obviously making 440rwkw will require fuel and solid ignition upgrades

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217635-rb26-rebuilt/#findComment-3845217
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Johnny is sad now... Because you didn't get Bosch Motorsport ABS.  
    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
×
×
  • Create New...