Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh and rhinos time with mods mentioned by ken was a 12.46

and pissnnissan (Beau) chill your new on this forum so take some time to read it see how we operate, not just come on with an elitist attitude (FMPOV).

RB20 struggle to get into the 12's, considering he needed a new clutch at the time i'd called it pretty good effort to get a 13.03 the first time he went to the plex in the car.

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by RB20LagWagon

Rhinos best time in the gtr was a 12.4 @ 113 mph and that was with the boost restrictor taken out so it was running 1 bar boost. take out the launch (1.7 60 foot) and a roll on the road makes things alot closer

Yes but compare std to std and the difference will be there.

What you have to remember people is that everyone is not a drag racing expert so dud launches , unwillingness to thrash there pride and joy , respect about street dragging comes into play.

As has been suggested on many occassions, if you want the proof , get the time slip.

And try and compare equivalent spec vehicles ie. std , lightly modded , well worked.

Is more than one GTR done an 11 at the plex and don't see too many SR20 or RB 20 or RB25's in those numbers but these are well worked over so what does it prove. Obviously these guys have bigger chequebooks.

And as I posted earlier , there are SR20's in the 8's in Japan.

What does it all prove??

Enjoy what you have for the time you have it and this

*the GTR can be beaten , my SR20, RB20 , RB25 , XR6 is

better *

crap is getting VERY tiresome.

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by pisnnissn??

giz01, it may pay to post the footage up here for some people to see, but then again there will be excuses...

mrsnub, thanks for your 2 cents worth but personally i don't give a shit what you'd put your money on. Unless you're going to answer the questions i've asked, or provide some relevant info don't bother replying next time.

First off i have no doubt you (Giz01) have footage of 2 stock GTRs running low 14 sec passes. But do you honestly believe thats the best they can do in stock form? If so you are fooling yourself. Im not saying they are the fastest cars out there, but they are definatly good for at least low 13s stock.... I have seen them do these times. Id say driver ability/track conditions and the possibility that the car was having problems such as slipping clutch etc etc.

Secondly "pisnnissn" there was no need to take that tone and swear at me. I know what lightly modded Silvias can do, my mate run a 13.6 with just exhaust, POD, FMIC and 15psi which is pretty impressive. But really its a 2 litre 4cyl turbo vs a 2.6 litre 6cyl twin turbo..... (And the price tags show this) Like Ken said your comparing apples with oranges.

Plus the fact that you "dont give a shit" about my opinion really doesnt worry me in the slightest, because you have proven in each post that you are really only on here to stir shit, which isn't welcome on these forums.

Ok boys and girls.

It was my purple GTR that this guy is talking about, and yes I was running mid 13's that night. First time in the new car down the plex, stock standard and I was taking off pretty quick but I wasn't hard launching it as I was still getting used to it. I also had some issues getting it into second on most passes (syncho's maybe). But I'm not making excuses, I drive crap.. ha ha ha

I was even beaten in a run with Summoner once....

I have no doubt with a better driver my car would have run a 12, and regarding silvia's if you were to launch a gtr right stock for stock it's no contest, I can vouch for that.....

I don't doubt that what you said is true Pisnnisn, but as the thread stated the GTR didnt' launch so maybe he was just having fun, or maybe he gave it everything and got beat. So what, thats half the fun right.

Still your attitude is not really called for, sure we are a bit one eyed, just like Silvia forums are, but calling any of us ***cking idiots is not really mature is it?

Ryan's best was 12.4 .

Several of a similar stockness have been known to pull high 11's.

Not unusual for R32 GTR's to achieve this sort of time, in near stock form. Not unusual for R33 GTRs either.

You can reasonable expect to lose against a gtr if you have a silvia. If you win then it must feel pretty good but, it doesnt mean you can beat any stockish gtr thereafter.

ryan's mph is indicative of an 11 second pass with some good driving.

The GTR keeps pulling very hard after 400m, not something the sr20 powerplant is equal to.

Any cars performance is hampered by driver inabillity. If a silvia beats a gtr becasue of it then who cares. Visa versa.

What has only been touched on is std s13-s15, i am sure there has been some running 16's if not 17's. but thats no the point. you can't really say "i have seen a GTR run 13s all night" when u dont know what the situation was, for all u know the peron may have only had one leg or something like that. gtrken did it well, and spoke of a car he knows what it has done and has a time slip, for all we know pisnnissn?? u are all talk, coz u have said anything u can back up.

it was summed up well when it was said comparing apples and oranges.

i would also like to point out the diffrence in motors. i have never heard of a sr20 producing 500HP PER 1LITRE. BUT i have seen this in a rb26, signal 34GTR. i would be amazed if an sr20 can do this. pisnnissn?? take it apon yourself to prove me wrong. and i dont wanna hear someone say they are diffrent motor, diffrent displacement, because we are having a gtr vd silvia debate, which means rb26 vs sr20 (ca18). the most i ahve seen push out of a sr is approx 730hp which was 'JUN' s15. and why arn't s1x used in events such as vmax etc.

the s1x isnt a bad car dont get me wrong, but i know i will have a gtr over it anyday.

bathurst anyone ? rember many years ago

B0BB0

p.s "The GTR can neva loose"

I did not say that a std gtr is only capable of low 14's i just said i have video footage that shows 2 gtr's running these times on probably the best drag strip in oz. No doubt they could be driven faster! I have ran 13.75@102mph @ willowbank with only a 3" exhaust, hot air pod filter & 14psi in my gf's 97 s14a auto(2.16 60ft) & i am going back down to willowbank on the 23rd aug to hopefully knock a few more tenths off this with cold air partion & chiptorque chip as i have seen a similarly stock s15 run 13.3 with like this which to me is more impressive than a gtr running mid 13's. I think the reason some people like pisnnissin are talking the way he is, is because the guys on nissan silva are bragging about beating the mighty gtr & if they didn't think it was fast then why would they brag about beating it? I mean i wasted a echo off the lights the other day & didn't i feel like a champion then!

Obviously the gtr was sick or the driver crap or only having half ago, who knows but a wins a win!

Originally posted by AeroGrace

i was just thinkin' if you "pulled up next" to a car, can you really see if it has a front-mount? Let alone what brand it was......

:uh-huh:

Nice point !! *imagine him getting off the car and walk around the GTR and get back into his car and rev a lil, light turns green and off he goes !* :D

Considering the same amount of money spent, rb26 will have more potential. Most people will agree wouldnt they?

I have owned both a quick Silvia, an S15 with 280 hp ATW, and now an R32 GTR at the limit of the std terbs with 340 hp ATW (both on the same dyno). Whilst the GTR runs the faster time slip, the S15 funnily enough felt faster due to the steep power curve. The S15 also had the higher top speed (256 km/h) compared with the R32 (245 km/h is the best so far).

All in all, however, the GTR is a much more enjoyable car to drive hard and feels far more predictable when exiting a corner on full noise (no surprise here with the ATESSA).

I have also been chopped a few times by Silvias (and even Summoner's V8) when caught at the lights off boost. But as gtrken says, when challenged in a rolling start it's a different matter. Gotta love the feeling when challenged on the freeway and there is plenty of room - drop back to third straight into full boost at 4 grand on 100 km/h, hold this gear until the taco hits 8 grand and more likely than not your adversary will be a distant object in the rear view mirror.

Both the SR20 and the RB26 are great engines that will go down in history as a tribute to Nissan.

Originally posted by Gav

Both the SR20 and the RB26 are great engines  that will go down in history as a tribute to Nissan.

:uh-huh: no doubt

i sure hope their venture into the V-series engines brings them as much success as before...:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...