Jump to content
SAU Community

Whats the best mods for a stock R34 GT-T?

Bill

By Bill,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bill Collaborator

Bill

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, Ive got basicly a stock R34 GTT.

The wife has said I can spend a few $$ on it :D :D

I want to warm it up a bit.

Budget is somewhere between $3000 and $5000.

Cant be too loud or Droney afterwards, its a car for daily use.

Whats the recommendations for the best bang for the buck?

I was thinking along the lines of

Pod Filter

Bleed Valve

Exhaust

Intercooler

Is that a reasonable start?

Any recommendations on brands / things to avoid?

Whats the Turbosmart E Boost like? Someone recommended one to me. Better getting this than a mechanical bleed valve?

Any ideas what increase in performance I would be looking at?

Lastly, wheres a place that does a good job at a reasonable price?

I bought it from Unique Autosports and Im quite happy to go back there. Anyone have good or bad experiences from them?

2BNVS Veteran

2BNVS

Posted
Posted

thats a start,

1st things i done

hks pod filter

bleed valve- boost up to 12psi

3'' exhaust,3''high flow cat, 3.5'' cat back

yet to get cooler but its in the process of being made.

saving up for apexi avcr- elec. boost controller

performance gain would be noticible with a good dyno tune,

UAS is where i get alot of my parts from and find them very good.

with just pod,zorst, and boost up i hit 146kw@wheels..

hope that helps..

cheers...

www.freewebs.com/2BNVS_r33

FLIP Rising Star

FLIP

Posted
Posted

get a full exhaust and dont buy a bleed valve get an electric one instead. you can get fairly cheap second hand items such as the profec b. if your not looking for big hp you dont need the front mount intercooler. air filters also dont do that much. spend the rest of the money on some good suspension and a power fc. :(

gts4-skyline Contributor

gts4-skyline

Posted
Posted

I dynoed my car with a K&N panel filter and got 176kw@6007rpm with 1304Nm @4713rpm.

I fitted a 2 3/4 in stainless cat back exhaust and had the cat removed(because we can in NZ:p ) and then redynoed it and got 195kw@6660rpm and 1398Nm @4655rpm

This was on a dynapack pro V5 hub dynamometer.

All figures are at the wheel hubs.

You seem to on the right track, apart from the bleed valve. Forget about that and get an electronic boost controller. But a SAFC might be a good idea as well, to keep it from leaning out at higher boost.

Glenn

Bill Collaborator

Bill

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by gts4-skyline

I dynoed my car with a K&N panel filter and got 176kw@6007rpm with  1304Nm @4713rpm.  

I fitted a 2 3/4 in stainless cat back exhaust and had the cat removed(because we can in NZ:p ) and then redynoed it and got 195kw@6660rpm and 1398Nm @4655rpm  

19kw just from removing the cat?

I didnt think they were that restrictive.

Im assuming that was the factory one you removed?

gts4-skyline Contributor

gts4-skyline

Posted
Posted

I removed the cat and fitted a 2 3/4in kakimoto stainless cat back exhaust. That gained me 19rwkw.

A SAFC is a super air flow controller, it enables you to controll the air/fuel mixtures by tricking the computer some how. I'm not really up to play with them, but have heard a few success stories from people fitting them.

Glenn

Cake Mentor

Cake

Posted
Posted

i'd go:

full aftermarket exhaust (one with centre muffler aswell as rear, since you dont want it too loud)

front mount intercooler

electronic boost control + apexi safcII, or can go for a more serious aftermarket ecu. try get these ones installed at the same time so you don't have to tune it more than once (save $).

Turbosmart E Boost is probably good, but you can also get jap brand EBC (electronic boost controllers) for a similar price. its up to you really.

FLIP Rising Star

FLIP

Posted
Posted

instead of getting the safcII why not spend a little more for a greddy E manage. You can even find second hand power fc's for a little more than a thousand that will save you from spending money on the safc now when you will probably uprgrade to a a programmable computer in the future anyway.

GTS4 - are your kw readings to the wheels or to the fly wheel?

adznight Newbie

adznight

Posted
Posted

Check out this months issue of "Speed" the magazine. It has a RB25DET tune guide. It's worth a little look. Also got info on the V35 GT-R as well. Personaly I am adding a R34 FMC, Apexi Power FC with hand controler, air pod and exhaust to mine. Should go well I reckon. You'll get plenty of power before you even think on engine internals :P Just remeber they love to breath and the standard ECU's are full of holes.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

the R34 intercooler is plenty big enough for the stock turbo.

It's thicker than the R33 cooler. If any of you R34 guys want to palm off your old stock intercooler let me know and I'll ping you $150 for it.

Get a light flywheel (and clutch while your at it).

Do the exhaust, all the way. Thermal wrap the dump & front pipe.

Diff cradle kit

Panel filter.

Boost controller.

For starters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...