Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just wondering if someone could post up some pictures of the installation of a greddy profec b spec 2 onto a rb 25. Their is a DIY thread in How to's but the pictures do not work :(

Also where would be the best spot to get the feed line into the cabin of a stagea?

Cheers,

chris

ok this is what is going on at the moment with my stock boost lines in the stagea:

Intercooler piping nipple and stock solinoid in bottom right:

post-40162-1209974449_thumb.jpgattach_add.png

Another angle:

post-40162-1209975045_thumb.jpg

Do i get the pressure feed for the actual unit itself from here ( I will install t piece in the vaccuum line that has the white line on it (fuel regulator correct??), the route one of the houses from the t-piece into the cabin to unit:

post-40162-1209974840_thumb.jpg

cheers,

chris

Hi all,

Currently in the procces of installing a Greddy Profec B spec 2 boost controller into the stagea :D

Just after some help with what vacum lines go where with the new solinoid and if Im going to have to plug up any of the old ones?

here is what the current stock set up is:

post-40162-1209975729_thumb.jpg

post-40162-1209975863_thumb.jpg

Do i get the pressure feed for the actual unit itself from here ( I will install t piece in the vaccuum line that has the white line on it (fuel regulator correct??), the route one of the houses from the t-piece into the cabin to unit:

post-40162-1209975976_thumb.jpg

Cheers,

chris

Edited by kidafa

Gday mate. If you like I can take some pictures of my setup tomorrow and post them up. I found the installation manual to be pretty good. In fact the hardest part for me was finding a way to route the hoses and wiring into the cabin!

Just make sure you rubber mount the solenoid to the bodywork. Very important.

Cheers!

and the other vac lines for the controll valve come from.....?

Just found this:

ebc1.jpg

Looks good but if from my above pictures it looks like I will have one vac line that will then go no where??

cheers,

chris

yeah i added a line from the intercooler pipe like the first pick. Outlet goes straight to the wastegate actuator

which outlet?? Sorry Im not very well knowledgedwhen it comes to this sort of stuff... So far all ive done myself is timing belt and fmic install.. all gone well so far but ive done large amounts of researching for each...

sorry not sure off the top of my head. In the controllers manual there is a clear diagram. You use the COM and either NC or NO ports with this setup. Someone will have the exact setup you need just be careful if you hook it up wrong you can end up with unregulated boost = bad

both of the pics above have the same outlet hooked to the wastegate so just copy that.

Yeah im going to hook up the intercooler to the "ON" port and the wastegate to the "COM" port..... It just looks like im going to have one vacum line left over after removing the stock solinoid as their are more than 2 pipes with the stock solenoid

sorry mate, but i was getting minimal love from the guys in the forced induction area... :banana:

Meh, get your answers where you can is how I feel about it. :laugh:

Good work btw, hope you get it all sorted and running smoothly.

I've got a fmic and hi-flo turbo coming this week. :banana: Watch my space! :)

Update:

Got the majority of the install done tonight.... EG. ran the vac line into the cabbin for the unit and the solinoi control wire also into the cabin, Hooked up the pressure feed of the fuel regulator and installed the Unit under my headunit in the pocket thats their (went single din headunit from double din stock)....

I decided to hook up it all apart from the solonoid tonight to use it as a boost gauge for a day or two just to see whats going on currenty.... Went for a quick spin then and I think I got the peak boost at 4.5psi.... Couldnt really put the boot in reall hard thou as it was raining really hard (as you would know if you lived in adelaide)....

As for new settings when I connect up the solonoid in the next few days what do you guys recomend I set my Low(grannyspec) and Hi boost pressures to? I was thinking either 4 or 5 psi for low and 10 for hi. Only mods are frount mount intercooler and this boost controller at the moment... will get a SAFC in the no to distant future.....

Also just wondering with the stock solinoid (un grounded) does what gear the cars in also have something to do with how many psi it boosts?

Cheers all,

chris

stock boost is around 7psi, so you can use that as low boost, and 10-12 as high boost, seeing as you have a FMIC.

it will run richer when you increase the boost however, which can reduce fuel economy.

adding things like exhaust, fmic, pod, etc will increase boost slightly, however it's best done with a boost controller. :(

I was thinking of having low set lower than 7.....

Does the gear effect the bost with stock soloinoid? ( I know that the rev range does)

Yeah im aware that winding up boost is going make it run richer this reducing economy.... Ill just get a good tune with stock computer if possible (Or will i need a SAFC?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...