Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now your wallet will be the catalyst to how far you go.Once you figure out your budget the rest is easy,just order the parts :(

True true, but it sucks to be paid every forth night though :P gonna go and start looking for my parts :P

Honestly my oponion would be to buy a cheap rb25det that is in good condition and chuck it in and continue your voyage to 250rwkw. Keep in mind the stock bottom end still has another 50rwkw in headroom and is still considered safe hp for the engine.

Dont waste your money rebuilding the engine. Buy another one for $1500 and sell your old one for $750 and your laughing.

RB25 will do your 250rwkw standing on its head.

This is the correct answer !!

If you insist on rebuilding the engine then don't bother with forged. As said above the stock 50k donks will do your power level easy.

Also slapping forged pistons in a daily can be annoying if you end up with average pistons or average machine work.

Just rebuild it using nissan gen parts and you will have a tough engine.

Your biggest worry with a rebuild is finding a machinist that won't screw your engine somehow.

Exept quality forged pistons are cheaper than the standard Nissan cast items...All I did was a standard rebuild +20thou with ACL forgies and Bearings. Brand new Oil and Water Pump Timing belt Etc...Never had a problem with piston slap or oil usage...Just make sure you replace all the water and oil lines...i didnt and regretted not doing so as ive been trying to fix them as they fail with the motor in the car.

I dont know why you would rebuild a motor to do something a standard one can do.

At the very most i would just put new rings and bearings into your engine to just give it a freshen up but this would be much more costly then getting another engine and chucking it in.

Also use proper oil. Motol 300v will see the engine does not do another bearing.

Thanks guys, guess I concluded to have a forged rebuild and will note to leave some money for the miscellaneous parts. By the way YAWN saw your R32 at Chasers Motorworks couple days ago, looks hot :bomb_ie:

Haha yeah? What does your car look like? Anything distinctive about it? So I can look out for it next time im there >_< PM me if you like

I dont know why you would rebuild a motor to do something a standard one can do.

At the very most i would just put new rings and bearings into your engine to just give it a freshen up but this would be much more costly then getting another engine and chucking it in.

Also use proper oil. Motol 300v will see the engine does not do another bearing.

I'm with you Guilt-Toy, 250rwkw is still WELL withing the realm of a stock RB25. I would just get a good wrecker motor with a warranty mate, throw in some new rings if you want and be done with it.

The quality of the tune will have more to do with your engine hanging together at those power levels than the internals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...