Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone i was just wondering if anyone could help as i have posted before about cv's and had a little bit of luck but only on who to see

,i am looking at getting it all fixed up this week as my cv's and coil packs are fu*#ed. does anyone have a part number for cv's or knows a place in perth that does them for stags(s1)

and also does anyone in know where to get the coil packs from,either splitfire or stock,i am fixing that up and a little ding my fiancee done when she reversed into it,then i am selling her. any help would be great,thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217965-help-please-perth/
Share on other sites

get some splitfires of ebay for 500 and install them yourself. probably go new plugs to.. if your selling i wouldnt worry about the exhaust, your just gonna lose money

cheers,were they just for a rb25 then??

try " alans cv joint " in osborne park

they did a good job on some CV joints I had before

and yeah- go the splitfires

hey everyone i was just wondering if anyone could help as i have posted before about cv's and had a little bit of luck but only on who to see

,i am looking at getting it all fixed up this week as my cv's and coil packs are fu*#ed. does anyone have a part number for cv's or knows a place in perth that does them for stags(s1)

and also does anyone in know where to get the coil packs from,either splitfire or stock,i am fixing that up and a little ding my fiancee done when she reversed into it,then i am selling her. any help would be great,thanks

i am fixing that up and a little ding my fiancee done when she reversed into it,then i am selling her. any help would be great,thanks

sorry then you're selling ...the car, right?

Shame to get rid of the stagea surely... how can one go back to a boring old Australian car after a Stag???

sorry then you're selling ...the car, right?

Shame to get rid of the stagea surely... how can one go back to a boring old Australian car after a Stag???

true true,although i my daily driver was a very nice vq statesman(i think it was nice,want to be after $20000 been spent) then i crashed it,took the stag off the mrs and bought her a crv,:) if i can do a bit more work to her and get the power up id say id keep her

  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys thanks for the info,i took the wagon to alans in ozzy park on thurs,gota call fri and they said the shafts have to be machined as no one makes them for skyline running gear,and then gota call sayin they went to get the part off shelf(boot i think) and it wasnt there,cant get the stag back till tues :D and i sourced some splitfires for $400....Is that a good price?so next week she will be all up to scratch.thanks again

$400 delivered for (new?) splitfires? You suck! :D I just got mine last week for $500, so you did very well...

:huh: yeah brand new delivered,called just jap and they wanted $699 so i thought i was doing ok,they are easy to install right?

Edited by stagpower

hey matey - if you need a hand doing the coilpacks I can help

I am scheduled to do ours this weekend.. or very soon - so I could show you how to do yours at the same time -basically its not hard- just fiddly really..

and some of the alan keys holding the coil pack cover on can be a bitch to get to .

could you please tell me whats involved,just the top cover then some screws/bolts? cheers
hey matey - if you need a hand doing the coilpacks I can help

I am scheduled to do ours this weekend.. or very soon - so I could show you how to do yours at the same time -basically its not hard- just fiddly really..

and some of the alan keys holding the coil pack cover on can be a bitch to get to .

yeah mate sounds good,where ya based?would make it a bit easier, i'l bring some beers,

get your CV joins rebuilt its much cheaper compared to replacing a brand new ones. Half the cost to rebuilt the CVs

got both side for $340.00 which from what my mates have paid for like telstars etc it is good,just waiting on coil packs to get here now.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...