Is This Right? Timing Belt

[GTAAAH]

eh anyway after alot of screwing around i'm putting my belt back on my car.. now the only problem i have is lining it all up.

I've attached a few pictures showing the gears lining up with the backing/key hole.. i just want someone to verify that that's where u line these little nubs up at.

The engine is at TDC

Also on the cover for my exhaust cam gear (vac holder thingo) theres a white mark, which lines up with the mark on the exhaust gear.. which i'm assuming is all good.

Other question i have is where do u line the marks on the timing belt up with? do they line up with the white marks on the backing plate behind the gears(and the slot on the bottom one) or somewhere else? (i cant use the ones i marked on the timing belt because i'm wondering if it may have skipped a gear)

Also my exhaust cam seems to be a tiny bit more advanced than the other one.. they're normally exactly opposed right? i can twist it back a tooth by hand

Edited May 6, 2008 by GTAAAH

[Duncan]

yeah mate looks like that is lined up fine. the slight misalignment is normal the belt sorts all that out later.

[Gtrgodzilla67]

looks all good to me , Make sure your tension is correct, i usally roll it over a few times then re check it, usally thae marks on the belt can be matched to the marks on the gears to make it easyier but they dont always line up, so use the marks on the motor.

[GTAAAH]

hmm so to line it up without markings would i just make sure the idler side is real tight and then tighten the tensioner side so it's tight as well, or is it still possible it can be a tooth out on the idler side and i'll need a new belt? (this one is only a few thousand k's odl)

Edited May 6, 2008 by GTAAAH

[GTAAAH]

OK that's all done but 1 other question i have.. does the engine need to be set to TDC when your putting the CAS on? i marked it and (altho the markings have faded) think it's real close to where it was.. but i'm just wondering if the positioning of the engine will make a difference? Also this thing you can adjust left and right to retard/advance timing right?

ty

[raps86]

it shouldnt mater where the motor is as the cas can only go in 1 position even though u line the cas up with the marks it is best 2 get a timing light and check the base timing 2 make sure that its spot on.

[blind_elk]

The CAS will only go on one way. It interlocks with the half-moon key in the end of the exhaust cam (it's just visible in your photo).

[dead32]

ugh re-using timming belt's

stdish rb26 rebuild $4000 +++

gate's belt $120

i know which one i'd choose, who's to say you have got the belt going the opposite way to which it was worn...

[GTAAAH]

ah yeh i have the half moon key slotted in ok, just wasn't sure, what your saying makes sense because obviously i didn't stop the engine at tdc hehe, bit of a brain fart there.. car will be all back and going tomorrow hopefully after hogging the garage for 4 months hehe

and the belt was changed as part of my buying deal, just before i bought the car and hasn't more than 2000km's on it, it looks fine so i see no need in replacing it

Edited May 7, 2008 by GTAAAH

[R31Nismoid]

Moving to General Maint as this isnt really turbo/performance related, just factory stuff which users would normally head to Gen Maint for.

Good thread with the pics etc.

[Mr Jollwah]

ugh re-using timming belt's

stdish rb26 rebuild $4000 +++

gate's belt $120

i know which one i'd choose, who's to say you have got the belt going the opposite way to which it was worn...

STD belt from nissan cost me about $95

peanuts really

[GTAAAH]

k it's all back together and car seems to run fine.. bit of a ticking sound i can hear from outside car or bouncing off walls.. i havnt had this thing on in ages but think that was there before hand.. how noisy are the injectors in these things? i'm thinking it's that.. anyways hopefully i'll drop by a mech tomorrow and get them to take a quick look, then it's clutch replacement time

thx for the help guys (in the other thread too)

[GTAAAH]

er for some reason my edit button does not show up, so i'll have to update this with a new post:

two mechs from my work said it's either a noisy lifter or injectors so hopefully some nice engine oil will fix the problem

[Godzilla32]

The injectors are quite noisy, as are the solid lifters even when shimmed to factory tolerance. You can isolate the noises by giving the engine a race while listening. You will notice the injectors cut out on engine decelleration. If the loudest noise goes away in this situation then its the injectors Another option is to use a proper stethescope or just a screwdriver on the suspect and the other end pressed on your ear.

By the way engine oil wont change lifter noise in a Rb26, as mentioned they are a solid lifter arrangement and do not require hydraulic pressure to operate. If they are noisey the only way to quieten them is to re-shim.

Hope this helps,

Deren

[GTAAAH]

Ah thanks godzilla, the noise stays constant through deceleration (i didn't think it would totally cut the injectors on backoff) so i guess it must be the lifters that are the problem.. which isn't really a problem after all. thx for the help

[Jmaac]

rotate the engine over a few times to ensure the belt tension is correct and then see if your marks are lining up