Jump to content
SAU Community

Respraying Roof/bonnet Only Possible?

Wacky Dee
 Share

Recommended Posts

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

I just took my 1 week old black R34 for a good wash ... I was aware that there are a LOT of fine scratches and swirls on almost every single panel of the car (seems the japanese owner used those dodgy drive through car wash places a LOT :D( ) so I bought some Meguire/Autoglym product to try and do a detail myself ...

After a good wash with Mequire's Gold wash I came to realize the paint is in a worse condition that I thought ... esp. the roof and the bonnet.

There are so many frigging damage spots (1-5mm sq. spots of cracked paint ... oxidation? salt? acid rain?) where the paint is completely gone and all you see white cracks and the metal body in the centre. So after the wash now, what I thought were tons of insects and bird droppings turned out to be damaged paint that no shampoo or wax is gonna fix :)((

Can anyone tell me if it's possible to have just the roof and bonnet resprayed and my approx. costs? The car is factory black (GV1?) I'm in sydney ... my dad's mate's son does car spraying for a living so he might be able to do it a bit cheaper hopefully. I definately don't have $3-5k to respray the whole car :D Even though there are a few scratches and damage to the doors, boot and other panels they're very minor compared to the roof and bonnet.

I'll try and take some pics later of the roof .. it looks horrible from a close distance.

The only good news is that, like any black car, it still looks farken awesome from atleast 3-4m away (when you can't see the paint damage/surface scratches) !! ;D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218220-respraying-roofbonnet-only-possible/
Share on other sites
Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm sure a cut a polish will take care of the fine scratches/swirls that are unfortunately on every single panel BUT .. as I said, the roof and bonnet have a lot of paint damage that nothing can fix (it's clearly cracked paint with undercoat visible)

I'll take some piccies and post them soon...

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

From what you've written... e.g. white areas that have cut through the paint etc... I think a cut and polish is useless, you'll need a respray... to answer your question, yes, the bonnet and roof can be repainted.

I had my bonnet repainted... and asked about the roof too... both can be repainted... you'll be up for around $350.00 for each... there abouts.

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted
my car has had the roof and bonnet resprayed and blended down to the 1/4 panels

ssr1.jpg

but i got a massive discount....

should have been about a grand i think

Mate, just my 2 cents... but if you paint your mesh black (or get black mesh) for your car - it would make it look much tougher.

And yeah, for the two items as I noted, $700 at least.

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted
$700 normal rates or mates rates? :thumbsup:

Either way I reckon it'd be a worthwhile investement as the roof and bonnet are truly fuxored ... the rest, can be hopefully fixed up with a cut and polish

Hey mate, $700 would probably be the middle ground you'll expect... you'll get quotes from anything like $1,500 through to around $600 so I guess $700 would be a descent price for a good job - it will take a few weeks do get finished... as your roof will take the most time... they'll have to slice it off at the sides of the panel etc.

Yeah, it is a good investmen... the other small things a cut and polish would do fine.

Good luck mate.

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
it will take a few weeks do get finished... as your roof will take the most time... they'll have to slice it off at the sides of the panel etc.

Good luck mate.

That surely must be a joke?? ;D

Edit: wait you can't really be serious ??? few weeks for a $700 job?? CUTTING the roof off ??? wtf? why would they do that .. they can just spray it on there. you MUST be joking right? riiiight?

Edited by Delta Force
NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted
That surely must be a joke?? ;D

Edit: wait you can't really be serious ??? few weeks for a $700 job?? CUTTING the roof off ??? wtf? why would they do that .. they can just spray it on there. you MUST be joking right? riiiight?

Mate, relax!! He doesnt mean actually cutting the roof off, he means cutting back the paint, painting it, and then blending it back onto the car. Your car isnt about to become a convertable :thumbsup:. And yes, it should take a few weeks. You need to let the paint cure, as well and the primer and clear. Good luck!

Xicon Contributor

Xicon

Posted
Posted

It shouldn't take that long to paint a roof at all .If I was doing it it would be a two day turn around the only reason it may take this long is it would be a job that gets done in between insurance work which is understandable .

Paint dosn't take long to cure enough to take a car home .A car can come out of the booth in the morning and the owner should be able to take it home later that day .

If the paint on the roof is as bad as it sounds then the yare going to have to prime down the pillars as well so they will have to paint the rear quarters as well .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...