Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it is going to improve things on increases throttle changes not steady state driving as the factory ecu will lean it back to stoic if the O2 sensor is working on steady state.

ultimately the best option is full engine management but the SAFC is TOTALLY WORTH IT (i'm with tangles).

Fuc# yeah.. this is what i want to hear.... Any one want to make an estimated guess on how many k's i might pick up per tank?

Also Installing it woudlnt be to hard by the looks of things... Many people do it themselves?

Cheers.

ok well going on your mods and what I already have, I am now getting 500 to the tank... I push my car that little further and she gets me up to the 500km mark everytime and I fill her up in time lol

so you'd gain an extra 100ks per tank

Oh this is on 98 vortex, bp ultimate gets me about 40ks less...

currently sitting on 350k's to this tank on BP 98... Havent driven it hard at all and im just waiting for the light to come on saying shes thirsty.

So do you guys recomend i install one my self?

Should i get a SAFC, SAFC2, SAFC neo? what you recomend?

A second hand SAFC2 for $200-$250 with all the gear is reasonable, or a new SAFC Neo off ebay for the <$390 mark is a good buy.

When I get mine, I'll install it myself, then get Shaun to tune it.

:D

Edited by RubyRS4

If you can find an SITC and SAFC2 for around $500-$550 all up delivered, thats good

$200-$250 install & tune at Boostwerks getting everything right

with stock exhaust you'll get much better fuel economy

however with full exhaust you'll get better economy and more powah !! :D

do I really need the SITC as well as the SAFC?

When you lean out the A/F with the SAFC you may get detonation (pinking or knocking). Without a SITC you will have to retard the base timing to get rid of it. With a SITC you can tailor the timing throughout the rev range to get maximum advance without knock. So it is desirable but not necessary - you may want to spend your money on a new front pipe first.

The SAFC is definitely worthwhile!! and if you're keen, as mentioned above, get the SITC as well for extra tuneability. However you can make do with a SAFC very well and the SITC's are quite rare so you may find them difficult to get hold of anyway. I only had an SAFC on my old stagea s2 and it had 160awkw comfortably. The SAFC will be fine for anything up to around 200awkw, and after that you'd probably want to look at some more advanced ecu's for better tuning capabilities.

People who say the SAFC wont affect fuel economy aren't giving the full story.

Basically the SAFC ONLY works when the throttle is past 50%. Below that, the SAFC doesn't do anything as far as I know. Above that, (ie. anything from 50% up to full throttle) it will modify the airflow signal that the ecu sees, making it supply less (or more) fuel than it otherwise would have. Usually you want to lean it out a bit, particularly at the higher revs, so this is where the SAFC will do its stuff. The theory goes that if its causing the ecu to supply less fuel at any point, then you will be saving on fuel at that point. Its more complex than this too, because the SAFC on its own will also affect ignition timing, but its still safe to say it could potentially save a bit on fuel.

Sure, it wont save you on fuel if you just cruise around and it wont affect your highway economy much since you'll only be using light throttle all the time. However, if your driving style involves heavy throttle a lot, then you WILL save on fuel. You'll only be using less fuel when the throttle is more than 50% but its a fuel saving nonetheless.

It may get you a few extra kw but for me the most thing I noticed was increased fuel efficiency and therefore more power in the low-midrange.

Since you'll need to tune it on a dyno, its a good idea to advance the timing a bit at the same time (keeping in mind that the safc will also advance the timing depending on how different the settings are to stock). By using a combination of safc tuning and advancing the base timing (at BOOSTWORX - yes, do go there!!) I managed 10kw extra at the top end and the car just felt so much more responsive right across the revs. AND I saved over 1.5L/100km in fuel economy from that point onwards. Admittedly the advanced timing meant I couldn't use anything but 98 octane fuel, but you should probably use this anyway :D

Lastly I'll just mention that just adding an exhaust to your car, will probably be enough to make it run too rich, and will require tuning of some sort. For this sort of mild tuning, the SAFC is excellent value. and if you know what you're doing, its simple enough to make small changes yourself afterwards. Just be sure to write down the settings before changing them and then you can always return to these settings later.

good luck with it :D

Edited by pixel8r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...