Jump to content
SAU Community

pleeeze help


Recommended Posts

my r32 gtst rb20det doesn't start properly, it is very hard starting it and wen it does start it's like it's missing badly but if u keep pumping it eventually piks up but u still need to hold the pedal down otherwise if u let go it dies. wen it warms up u can let go and it'll be ok, restarting isnt as hard....only cold starts is a problem

i have tried:

replacing plugs with iridiums 0.8mmgap

testing my air flow meter on another r32

swapping the ignitor

swappin the silver thing on passenger side strut tower...wat is it?

swapping the oxygen sensor

cleaning the aac valve

cheking the tps

cheking for vacuum leaks

bypassing fuel pump relay

chek fuses etc.

it's like something isnt letting it idle and start properly initially but wen it warms up it gets better.

if it makes a difference then the exhaust smells very rich and blows greyish smoke wen engined is revved

tried search function but got no answers....any ideas/experiences will be a great help !!

jay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All i can think of is the Computer may have had it...I was gonna prob say faulty fuel pump or injectors but If u say its running fine when it warms up Then not Fuel...

Best thing you could do is go and get it Checked out :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i thought of the computer aswell but i don't understand why it runs normal when warmed up. it's almost like a sensor or something has a intermitent problem.....and doesn't like doing it's job when cold. anybody know what keeps the rb20 idling, does it have a idle controller or something...

thanx for the replies, keep the ideas rolling in, might help me stumble on something obvious !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a similar problem:

sometimes starts first go sometimes not (used to NEVER start first go). cranks fine.

when it does catch on, it revs really low for a couple of seconds - like its trying to rev up but can't. in 5 seconds it magically goes up to 1000rpm and idles normal.

dunno what it is. does this sound like spark plugs? tried cleaning AFM, played with TPS, ran some injector cleaner recentl.

i htought this was a similar topic so someone might be able to help me too...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wazr32 - thats similar to wat i have but alot worse, it just doesn't tip start and hold steady like it shud.

r34gtt-r - when u say thermostat, do u mean wat was said earlier about the sensor or the actual thermostat that opens and closes the water flowing in the engine from the radiator.

jus remebered that tucked away in the glove box is a hks idling stabiliser...don't kno y this is for (beside the obvious in its name)

tested it plugged in or out, doesn't make a difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

i have a similar problem:

sometimes starts first go sometimes not (used to NEVER start first go). cranks fine.  

when it does catch on, it revs really low for a couple of seconds - like its trying to rev up but can't. in 5 seconds it magically goes up to 1000rpm and idles normal.  

dunno what it is. does this sound like spark plugs? tried cleaning AFM, played with TPS, ran some injector cleaner recentl.  

i htought this was a similar topic so someone might be able to help me too...

Mine does it as well but not as bad....i just need to give it a lil rev sometimes to get the revs to pickup to over 1000rpm

My bros car does the same thing.

Scott

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah is i give the accelerator a poke it goes up to normal its only if i let is run will it struggle for revs then come up to normal in a few seconds. its perfect when i start it when its warm.

thermostat - good idea. has to be temperature-related i rekon. although i don't see how the coolant circuit relates to the starting characteristics...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

checked on my rb20, the top coolant pipe has 2 sensors plugged in, one is a single wire clip the other is a 2 wire clip. the single wire is for the temp gauge, when pulled out the temp drops to nothing. the other 2 wire clip does nothing when pulled out ???? maybe this is the info the computer reads ????

2moro i will unbolt both the sensors and have a visual inspection inside.

chow for now :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I second what R34GTT-R said :) - whats that shit in the glovebox. Get rid of it while you're troubleshooting. Look at where the HKS idle thingo is spliced in, might be a dodgy connection/splice there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Mine does the same thing too ever since I got it. However mine did get much better after it had 2 exhaust valves replaced (i think that cylinder was down on comp for a while which wouldnt have helped cold starts). But it still coughs and splutters about in the morning.

Im told its due to my Blitz ECU. Im told alot of jap ecu's have cold start features removed and thus run a bit crappy until the engine is warm.

Red17

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Took a little trip  went to nismo hoping the get my fuel tank hoses and unfortunately they told me they didn’t have stock luckily I was able to go to a Nissan parts store and they were able to order them in for me  then can home and cleaned the tank with some degreaser and fitted the new hoses before putting it back in the car 
    • 100% I’ll hack into the 33. Strap a turbo onto the RB25DE and/or put the 25 head on a 30 block. 33 passed in cos the reserve was too high. I’ll try lowballing it again and negotiate. Aim is to have it landed and on the road for under 15k, then spend the same amount on top in mods.
    • It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.
    • They sell them in Malaysia for about $4
    • First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe.  Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet.  Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 
×
×
  • Create New...