Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all I just put a new front\dump on my r33 and when i put her back on the ground the engine aint turning over.

When i turn the key i can hear what i beleive to be the starter motor goin click click click (really fast) Now she has never had any problem starting so has shown no signs of a weak starter...

The dump pipe install took me say 3-4 hours in which time the radio was on.. could it be not enough power in the battery to engage the starter motor properally? I would have thought that if there was not enough juice it would just crank to motor real lazy or something.?

Its got me f&*'d cause all i touched was the dump pipe...

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218595-just-fitted-dumpfront-pipe/
Share on other sites

could just be your battery terminals, take of the terminals just get a steel brush and run it over the neg and pos terminals on the battery to clean them. then put them back on, tighten them, make sure there is no movement and try start it, sounds as if its not making contact properly. if it was flat it would click slowly.

if you decide to go through the hassle of removing the battery from the boot...

it might pay to check that there is enough water inside to cover the electrodes by taking the caps of and shinning a torch down there. if they need topping up, go and buy some distilled water because normal water will stuff it.

cheers 4drftn

^ maybe your just getting too smart Mafia lol

lol, when you turn the key, and the car goes "tick tick tick" how much more obvious can you get?

lol, would you go and get some jumper leads, or runn off to SAU and post a thread?

lol, when you turn the key, and the car goes "tick tick tick" how much more obvious can you get?

lol, would you go and get some jumper leads, or runn off to SAU and post a thread?

I'm hearing ya... common sense, It's an oxymoron I say!

Now if you can just tell me where I can purchase some wiper blades for my 1997 stagea...thx :domokun:

Edited by madbung

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...