Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick Question

agentx

By agentx,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

agentx Rising Star

agentx

Posted
Posted

Guys i would really REALLY appreciate some help in this matter ... i've just put a deposit down on a skyline r32 (RB20DET) (i shouldve waited till after) he did a compression check on it today and the results are as follows:

1) 90

2) 95

3) 90

4) 90

5) 100

6) 95

They are pretty even, but i read around a bit and saw that it should be around the 150 mark? the car drives perfect and theres no smoke revving it up. Now what i'm thinking is that the compression check was done wrong? or are there different types of checks which u get different results with?

Please tell me what i should do as 10k is alot of cash for me. Should i get a leakdown test done on it again from a performance mechanic? What are the perfect results for that going to be like?

Thanks for the help guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218601-quick-question/
Share on other sites
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Who actually did the test? if it's not done correctly you can get sh1t results. ie car should be warm

If results are still the same, squirt a bit of heavy oil down one of the cylinders and try again, if results are better then its rings, if results are still poor its valves and guides [and probably rings as well].

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218601-quick-question/#findComment-3856523
Share on other sites
R33Turbo Proficient

R33Turbo

Posted
Posted

Yeah i doubt all 6 cylinder rings will be worn out, but my compression on Neo engine was all 150 mark, maybe rb20's are different cuz i read some other 32 reading real low around 100 as well. And also i know a mate who has a cylinder difference of 50psi from others and with a oil squirt it gets 170, which im assuming is the rings or the pistons itself however it runs perfectly fine and has great power on dyno without any loss so im confused to whether you should feel any performance loss or not lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218601-quick-question/#findComment-3857093
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...