Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I'm currently in the process of tuning my car and am having trouble getting past 5500rpm. Or to be a little more precise, it won't go past 5500rpm.

Mod list:

Rb25det running on rb20 harness

Greddy Intake manifold

Q45 throttle body + rb25 tps

Greddy top feed 10.5mm fuel rail

GTR injectors with resistor pack

HKS 2535 Turbo (10psi internal wastegate)

Turbo back 3 inch exhaust

FMIC

Greddy Emanage Ultimate

Nimso AFPR

Sard r2d2 atmospheric bov

Bee-r rev limiter

So in any gear, any throttle position as soon as I hit 5500rpm, the car hits what feels like an ignition cut. (Feels like the factory speed limiter.) Its runs flawlessly before it reaches that figure. According to the logger, the ignition isn't breaking up and the air fuel ratio is fine.

Its not a boost leak, nor a coilpack problem, the maf seems fine its reading up to 5 volts so I don't see anything out of the ordinary there.

The guy that is tuning my car has a lot of experience with the emanage ultimate, he went on various courses to learn how to tune it so I think he is not at fault.

Checked for codes before and pulled up a 55, no malfunction.

If anyone has any ideas what could be going on I'd appriciate your input.

Thanks in advance,

Jay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218719-unknown-ignition-cuttuning-trouble/
Share on other sites

post-50030-1210583423_thumb.jpg

get rid of the BeeR limiter, the above picture is a result of using one of these limiters. it was in a week.

Rb20det_pinout.txt

i dont have a pinout for the rb25 handy, however if you do find one compare the numbers and description for the both,

you may want to check the tps and afm using different pins on the ecu's,

pluging the 20det loom into a an ecu designed and programed for a rb25 for example will missmatch these pins.

but 10 bucks says its the limiter.

I have similar problem. I have R33 gtst auto with electronic boost control, 11 psi, std turbo. Sometimes boost spikes ( for whatever reason) past 16 psi and wham! power cut, then ok again. Could be cold air, i have voltage bender to lower afm voltage so it does not max out. Still happens, i reckon voltage bender needs gentle signal increase. If its a sudden spike from say 0.5v to 5.5, its too fast for processor. This is all i can think of coz it's pissing me off to tell the truth.

I removed the bee-r rev limitter so its not that, checked the tps doesn't appear to be that. Also retarded the timing a bit and that didn't help.

I'm going to wire in my z32 maf after work tomorrow and I'll let you guys know what I come up with. I wish I'd have bought an fcon, thats all I'm going to say.

I removed the bee-r rev limitter so its not that, checked the tps doesn't appear to be that. Also retarded the timing a bit and that didn't help.

I'm going to wire in my z32 maf after work tomorrow and I'll let you guys know what I come up with. I wish I'd have bought an fcon, thats all I'm going to say.

yeah, i was lucky enough to get my hands on a HKS Fcon pro V fuel/ignition system there brilliant,

every dynamic can be tuned at every 100 rpm interval, then it can self learn after that.

thats cause the factory ecu's boost cut a 16 psi.

Dude! I always suspected that, thank you so much for confirming that. I am not being sarcastic, just glad that the problem is diagnosed and not in the realm of the unknown anymore.

Happy times!

thats cause the factory ecu's boost cut a 16 psi.

There is no boost cut, it would need a map sensor for boost cut. There is an excess airflow cut, which is a different boost for different turbos/modifications.

Edited by Adriano
get rid of the BeeR limiter, the above picture is a result of using one of these limiters. it was in a week.

Impressive :P

How have you theorized that the spark cut bent that rod though??

... Not being a cock, just thoroughly interested.

Edited by GeeTR
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...