Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 248
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

some HOT engine bays in here, can anyone shed some light on the cam cover breather fittings for me ?

what do i need to get to replace these with aftermarket ones, can i just get threaded fittings or do i need to sort it out with the PCV ??

edit: RB20

  • 2 weeks later...
some HOT engine bays in here, can anyone shed some light on the cam cover breather fittings for me ?

what do i need to get to replace these with aftermarket ones, can i just get threaded fittings or do i need to sort it out with the PCV ??

edit: RB20

You need to make sure you retain the one way valve on the PCV. (on the side of the rocker cover). You can change the top two oil breather hoses without any dramas. I had threads welded on however you can get the Earls finishers if you are only after the hose end look.

Where do you put the fuse box when you hide the wiring?

Also, what do you do with the metal brake lines coming from the ABS; do you get them powder coated or something, or do you just leave them with that wierd green coating on them.

Im gonna seriously tidy up my engine bay next year.

Where do you put the fuse box when you hide the wiring?

Also, what do you do with the metal brake lines coming from the ABS; do you get them powder coated or something, or do you just leave them with that wierd green coating on them.

Im gonna seriously tidy up my engine bay next year.

there are two choices for the fuse box (depends on the budget of the customer)

1. in the guard (under where the battery would normally sit)

2. inside the car

this car doesn't have ABS

but with brake lines we can make complete new ones from pipe or braided hose

also the stock ones can be chromed or painted or what ever the customer wants

dscf3114ux3.jpg

Here's my RB25 in a torana engine bay. I was thinking about getting the cam covers painted the same colour as the car, but it may look gay...dunno yet. What do you guys think?

It's funny how there seems to be more room in here than a skyline engine bay, but once you get near the chassis rails it's very tight..

Its gets done with other cars. So I dont see why not. Most Likely Wont come up as good.

Just Use Liberal Amounts of Towel and masking tape and a small spray gun like one with a 200ml pot or smaller to get it in to all the small places.

that looks really good. I would just go black on the cam covers though. Engine bay paint looks really well done. Who did it.

If your taling about my car, It was painted by a local painter in woonona. The colour itself is the secret. Kinda glows in the right light. You should see this colour near snow... :P

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...