Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey question for the guys with widebands installed. Where did you mount your sensors? I got the LM-1, can it be installed into the stock 02 sensor hole? or does it need to be further down stream just dont want to wreck the sensor from excessive heat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219063-wideband-sensor-location/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

do you mean 10cm up from the bend at the bottom of the dump pipe where it goes off to the cat? is it hard to get in and out? I'm not going to leave it in permanently. Did you have to mount it upside down to fit there?

ah awesome thanks for the picture. Where do you run your cable when the sensor is plugged in? just up into the engine bay then under the back of the bonnet and through the window?

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

be sure to pay attention to the wideband sensors installation and operation instructions

i mean, actually read them, pay note to the location, mounting position and direction of the 02 sensor in the exhaust

incorrect mounting and angle can really trash the expensive sensor, i think they also need direct 12v ign power as they must heat up before running exhaust gas

yeah instructions were a bit vague I thought. All they said is that it can't be mounted upside down because of condensation, or before the turbo because of heat not much else really. But I'm having a bit of a read though the innovative forum before I install.

The LM1 is the best of its kind, Any reason why a perm gauge with a wideband couldnt be fitted? Ive seen them on ebay and would prevent me thinking im killing my engine...

Would a narrow band be suitable?

I think innovative sell dash AFR gauges/displays as well to connect with their WB's

pretty sure a narrow band would be pretty useless as an idication to an AFR display as it can't tell you how rich or how lean

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

I believe those narrow band gauages you tune them to rich lean stock or whatever setting, but ive got no idea. Does the power fc have an input for readings from the lm1?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Innovate-Wideband-o2-S...1QQcmdZViewItem

Edited by DECIM8

yeah read something about using the lm-1 narrow band output (0-1V) to drive a gauge not 100% though. The lm1 has analog outputs for ecu's I believe it can interface with datalogit and the emanage ultimate for data logging not sure about any others. That link doesnt work..

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

I installed an LC 1 and gauge kit

cost me 340 landed into australia from usa

didnt really work that great

then it died

I sent it back for warranty repair and they have replaced it with a new unit

but i havent got around to reinstalling

I've a little experiance with WB's, so ill throw my 2 cents in.

do you mean 10cm up from the bend at the bottom of the dump pipe where it goes off to the cat? is it hard to get in and out? I'm not going to leave it in permanently.

Manual has the preferred location and orientation that the 5wire should be mounted. Generally, you want it as close to the turbo as possible, though somewhere that wont exceed ~7000C (i think, its been a while) It's all in the manual. Just before the cat is always a good idea, though it can be mounted in a finned heatsink if you really want it closer to the turbine (or if its in a rota)

Being easy to get to, is an important consideration, as installed with the engine running and NO heater 12v will coke the refrence cell up.

ah awesome thanks for the picture. Where do you run your cable when the sensor is plugged in? just up into the engine bay then under the back of the bonnet and through the window?

Theres a fellow on the Innovative forum whos noticed how electrically "noisy" the LC1 is. Be aware of this when running the cable (more important in a perm install i guess) Reading the forums, seems heat can kill the LC1 dead quick too. Just be sensable when mounting.

...they also need direct 12v ign power as they must heat up before running exhaust gas.

Yup, its generally a 5-30s warm up time, depending on sender's temp.

The LM1 is the best of its kind, Any reason why a perm gauge with a wideband couldn't be fitted? Ive seen them on ebay and would prevent me thinking im killing my engine...

Would a narrow band be suitable?

I think innovative sell dash AFR gauges/displays as well to connect with their WB's

pretty sure a narrow band would be pretty useless as an idication to an AFR display as it can't tell you how rich or how lean

Don't know about best. They've had their fair share of defective / playing up units. Be this due to the LC1 being thier most popular (most used) unit, or an inherent issue with its design, I don't know. I thought about a PLX unit, though opted for the LC1.

Innovative sell 4 or 5 gauges you can use. I "think" the crappy Autometer style single wire gauges respond in a linear fashion to input voltage, hence you could run the analogue output from the LC1 into one of these. (I think one of the Innovative's gauges would be a better option though; you get start / stop calibrate buttons.

yeah read something about using the lm-1 narrow band output (0-1V) to drive a gauge not 100% though. The lm1 has analog outputs for ecu's I believe it can interface with datalogit and the emanage ultimate for data logging not sure about any others. That link doesnt work..

As mentioned, theres a programble analogue output on both LC1 and LM1 that can be pumped into anything with a analogue > digital converter. Emanage, ANY aftermarket ECU, datalogit etc etc.

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...