Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey question for the guys with widebands installed. Where did you mount your sensors? I got the LM-1, can it be installed into the stock 02 sensor hole? or does it need to be further down stream just dont want to wreck the sensor from excessive heat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219063-wideband-sensor-location/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

do you mean 10cm up from the bend at the bottom of the dump pipe where it goes off to the cat? is it hard to get in and out? I'm not going to leave it in permanently. Did you have to mount it upside down to fit there?

ah awesome thanks for the picture. Where do you run your cable when the sensor is plugged in? just up into the engine bay then under the back of the bonnet and through the window?

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

be sure to pay attention to the wideband sensors installation and operation instructions

i mean, actually read them, pay note to the location, mounting position and direction of the 02 sensor in the exhaust

incorrect mounting and angle can really trash the expensive sensor, i think they also need direct 12v ign power as they must heat up before running exhaust gas

yeah instructions were a bit vague I thought. All they said is that it can't be mounted upside down because of condensation, or before the turbo because of heat not much else really. But I'm having a bit of a read though the innovative forum before I install.

The LM1 is the best of its kind, Any reason why a perm gauge with a wideband couldnt be fitted? Ive seen them on ebay and would prevent me thinking im killing my engine...

Would a narrow band be suitable?

I think innovative sell dash AFR gauges/displays as well to connect with their WB's

pretty sure a narrow band would be pretty useless as an idication to an AFR display as it can't tell you how rich or how lean

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

I believe those narrow band gauages you tune them to rich lean stock or whatever setting, but ive got no idea. Does the power fc have an input for readings from the lm1?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Innovate-Wideband-o2-S...1QQcmdZViewItem

Edited by DECIM8

yeah read something about using the lm-1 narrow band output (0-1V) to drive a gauge not 100% though. The lm1 has analog outputs for ecu's I believe it can interface with datalogit and the emanage ultimate for data logging not sure about any others. That link doesnt work..

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

I installed an LC 1 and gauge kit

cost me 340 landed into australia from usa

didnt really work that great

then it died

I sent it back for warranty repair and they have replaced it with a new unit

but i havent got around to reinstalling

I've a little experiance with WB's, so ill throw my 2 cents in.

do you mean 10cm up from the bend at the bottom of the dump pipe where it goes off to the cat? is it hard to get in and out? I'm not going to leave it in permanently.

Manual has the preferred location and orientation that the 5wire should be mounted. Generally, you want it as close to the turbo as possible, though somewhere that wont exceed ~7000C (i think, its been a while) It's all in the manual. Just before the cat is always a good idea, though it can be mounted in a finned heatsink if you really want it closer to the turbine (or if its in a rota)

Being easy to get to, is an important consideration, as installed with the engine running and NO heater 12v will coke the refrence cell up.

ah awesome thanks for the picture. Where do you run your cable when the sensor is plugged in? just up into the engine bay then under the back of the bonnet and through the window?

Theres a fellow on the Innovative forum whos noticed how electrically "noisy" the LC1 is. Be aware of this when running the cable (more important in a perm install i guess) Reading the forums, seems heat can kill the LC1 dead quick too. Just be sensable when mounting.

...they also need direct 12v ign power as they must heat up before running exhaust gas.

Yup, its generally a 5-30s warm up time, depending on sender's temp.

The LM1 is the best of its kind, Any reason why a perm gauge with a wideband couldn't be fitted? Ive seen them on ebay and would prevent me thinking im killing my engine...

Would a narrow band be suitable?

I think innovative sell dash AFR gauges/displays as well to connect with their WB's

pretty sure a narrow band would be pretty useless as an idication to an AFR display as it can't tell you how rich or how lean

Don't know about best. They've had their fair share of defective / playing up units. Be this due to the LC1 being thier most popular (most used) unit, or an inherent issue with its design, I don't know. I thought about a PLX unit, though opted for the LC1.

Innovative sell 4 or 5 gauges you can use. I "think" the crappy Autometer style single wire gauges respond in a linear fashion to input voltage, hence you could run the analogue output from the LC1 into one of these. (I think one of the Innovative's gauges would be a better option though; you get start / stop calibrate buttons.

yeah read something about using the lm-1 narrow band output (0-1V) to drive a gauge not 100% though. The lm1 has analog outputs for ecu's I believe it can interface with datalogit and the emanage ultimate for data logging not sure about any others. That link doesnt work..

As mentioned, theres a programble analogue output on both LC1 and LM1 that can be pumped into anything with a analogue > digital converter. Emanage, ANY aftermarket ECU, datalogit etc etc.

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...