Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Got an RB26/30 and a big single turbo - the bonnet is so close to shutting but just wont shut!

What have you guys done to get around that?

Im trying to avoid spacers, was wondering if there's a carbon bonnet or whatever thats got great clearance?!?!

Cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219307-bonnet-wont-close/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well yeah guess i could, but would really rather not :D

Good suggestion though

Translation: Shit didn't think of that.............. :)

Were is it hitting? Timing belt cover or the turbo.

If you get a genuine c/f bonnet it doesn't have the support frame, as it is very strong/stiff on it's own. I have a full c/f bonnet made by Custom Carbon (currently not fitted to car and at the mechanic's w/shop), it consists or 3 layers of carbon and resin, that's it, no fibre-glass, etc.

spacers are the only way to go...

on the xmember or on the bonned hinges

Looks that way unfortunatly

I rearranged my piping and put 10mm spacers in the hinges.

Cheers :D

Translation: Shit didn't think of that.............. :)

Were is it hitting? Timing belt cover or the turbo.

If you get a genuine c/f bonnet it doesn't have the support frame, as it is very strong/stiff on it's own. I have a full c/f bonnet made by Custom Carbon (currently not fitted to car and at the mechanic's w/shop), it consists or 3 layers of carbon and resin, that's it, no fibre-glass, etc.

Long time no speak!

lol, it was suggested by the mechanic and yeah - not a fan of the idea

Hitting turbo, im going to get prices on carbon over the next few days and if i go down that path (currently spacers is the go) ill spray it white to match

i dont know if anyone has thought of this, but any one thought of using LD28 engine mounts instead of hacking holes in bonnet subframes?

this was suggested from a retired mechanic who helped with my hilux rb30 conversion.

Edited by nizmonut
i dont know if anyone has thought of this, but any one thought of using LD28 engine mounts instead of hacking holes in bonnet subframes?

this was suggested from a retired mechanic who helped with my hilux rb30 conversion.

DIfferent mounts cant fix the problem, as the sump is about 4mm from the crossmember

then theres def something wrong my rb30/26 has 28ml of clearance from sump to the nearest piece of crossmember/steering rack....... and still have room for the 50x50 ml overkill strut brace over the top of the motor.

post-50030-1210855517_thumb.jpg

Edited by nizmonut
then theres def something wrong my rb30/26 has 28ml of clearance from sump to the nearest piece of crossmember/steering rack....... and still have room for the 50x50 ml overkill strut brace over the top of the motor.

post-50030-1210855517_thumb.jpg

Im guessing your isnt AWD, we have a diff/adapter plate to fit under the motor as well

Edited by Adriano
That must be a HIGH high mount manifold or is the turbo THAT big?

Cheers

Gary

Here's a pic :)

It was taken a while ago when it was dummy fitted together and before anything was done to the sump

Hey Steve!

Just occured to me now: WTF are you always bringing the auto supra to DECA. HTFU and enter the GTR, once it's up and running :)

PS: I want to see pics and details :thumbsup:

lol, the supra does so well down there though, 3L, small turbos - great response :)

Im organising a car trailer for the gtr so i can bring it to the deca masters ;)

Ill show you around it when i see you next, take it for a 'fully sick' lap of shepparton, basic details are;

3l bottom end

2.6 head with a little bit of work done

giant turbo

built bottom end

dry sump

triple plate clutch

talentless driver

ap racing brakes

tein suspension (got to get swaybars sorted asap)

there's more to it but thats the rough details :)

post-23559-1210894972_thumb.jpg

then theres def something wrong my rb30/26 has 28ml of clearance from sump to the nearest piece of crossmember/steering rack....... and still have room for the 50x50 ml overkill strut brace over the top of the motor.

post-50030-1210855517_thumb.jpg

Im guessing your isnt AWD, we have a diff/adapter plate to fit under the motor as well

+1

Is it RWD?

lol, I did predict this happening months ago when you showed pics of your worlds highest high mount. I would look at possibly a more suitable turbo/manifold combo which will not only clear the bonnet but make the car nicer to drive, but I know you have your heart set on the mack truck version. in which case I say just go the spacers and be done with it. it's the easiest cheapest way out of this problem.

lol, I did predict this happening months ago when you showed pics of your worlds highest high mount. I would look at possibly a more suitable turbo/manifold combo which will not only clear the bonnet but make the car nicer to drive, but I know you have your heart set on the mack truck version. in which case I say just go the spacers and be done with it. it's the easiest cheapest way out of this problem.

lol so true. Well its all a stop gap to be honest, got a spare rb26 at home that im going to get built and do the dry sump thing with aswel. It will have some -10's so clearance isnt an issue once i get that one back in

pffft bonnets are for sissies :down:

lol

Damn that's a huge turbo! :wub: How many Hp?

I wanted response with my rb25/30 combo, so i fitted the smallest recommended turbo GT3076R; also a fully built engine.

Love it! :ermm:

Can't wait till the next DECA, will be awesome.

How many hp? Oh, its got enough :whoops:

Ill see you at the next one :whoops:

Have you got it in the car yet?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...