Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I'm currently due to do a service on my car and I've just saw where the oil filter is located and all I can say is WTF!!! what a hell of a spot to put it...I gives me all the more reason to get a oil filter relocation kit.

Now I don't know what I'm looking or should I look for (in terms of brands), one of my requirements is that I need to connect a oil temp sensor for my oil temp gauge (which is still not installed - being lazy)

I was looking at the Perma-Cool oil filter relocation kit...Has anyone used them and if someone can tell me if you can connect an oil temp sensor

Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219404-oil-filter-relocation-kits/
Share on other sites

Apparently the Just Jap ones are pretty good - You can get a kit where you get the relocation kit and you get an oil cooler. I read also in their thread that you can fit oil pressure and temp sensors into the sandwich plate so that pretty much covers all your base (are belong to us!) :spank:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...nd-t173241.html

Starting from $389 for a relo-kit and 7 row cooling core. :P

Apparently the Just Jap ones are pretty good - You can get a kit where you get the relocation kit and you get an oil cooler. I read also in their thread that you can fit oil pressure and temp sensors into the sandwich plate so that pretty much covers all your base (are belong to us!) :spank:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...nd-t173241.html

Starting from $389 for a relo-kit and 7 row cooling core. :P

Hmmm...just the relocation kit (no Core) is $330 from Just Jap...must consider....

greddy (grex) oil relocation kit is around $150? from Nengun

i use it, so does mr.mod

That would be me Tangles is talking about.

Yep, I use the Trust GReddy/GRex one too - I can't remember how much I paid for it, but it was a fair chunk under $200.

Just make sure you PROPERLY secure all the lines as you put it on. They're a bit hard to install (the oil lines are pretty stiff and hard to bend into place for where it needs to be), but it's a short-term pain for long-term gain thing...

  • 3 weeks later...

Well I decided to get the Trust/Greddy Oil filter relocation kit (not the one with the oil cooler)...Getting it from RMS Motorsport for $200 deleivered to my door. Well at least this has delayed my service by approx 2 weeks (waiting for it to come in)

Does it use the same filter as the stock S2 filters or do I have to go something different??

When I had a justjap kit on my 180 it used a different filter but I cant remember what it was, but I'd say with the Greddy kit it would probably use the skyline filter. Just remember you'll need a little more oil than usual (not much, not as much as if you were adding a cooler too) 5L should still cover it.

  • 2 weeks later...

I don't get it, I dont have skinny/small arms as a rule and I can stand at the wheel and get my hand around the filter easily and my left hand fingers to balance pressure as I twist, too easy, it harder on the skyline but no problem on the stagea, what is the advantage in these kits beside removal?

Edited by momo
I don't get it, I dont have skinny/small arms as a rule and I can stand at the wheel and get my hand around the filter easily and my left hand fingers to balance pressure as I twist, too easy, it harder on the skyline but no problem on the stagea, what is the advantage in these kits beside removal?

Easier to change filter, filter in a relocation kits is usually mounted higher and reduces oil going everywhere when changing.

Makes it possible to add sensors for aftermarket gauges or alter plumbing to suit oil coolers.

:blink:

  • 1 month later...

Well i got my greddy relocation kit installed. Thank god I had access to a hoist because it was a pain in the ass to install...the other think I found not so good are the Earl's fittings - though they look nice, they are the screw clamp type (like a normal clamp just inside the fitting)...all but 1 broke on me and just used normal clamps to clamp...

The only problem I have now...is putting in my oil temp sensor.

I've got a autogauge oil temp gauge with the sensor but the sensor doesn't fit in the hole. What should I do....has anyone else got this relocation kit and autogauge oil temp gauge and how do you get around it??

At the moment I have 2 of 3 autogauge gauges running (volts and boost) and set in the centre under my headunit looks good but the oil temp is off until I can get the sensor installed

Got a tap and die set? Re-thread the sensor hole maybe to suit your sensor.

Save you running around looking for an adapter.

or

Check out autobarn, west/east coast auto spares (open sunday in ringwood i think)

for a brass adapter to suit the different threads, usually find it near where they

have the vaccum trees on the shelf.

Another thing, Jason, is that both the sandwich plate on the block and the bit where your new filter location is SHOULD have two different-sized fittings (at least that's how I remember it), so you can choose where it would be more convenient for you to "plug-in" the sensor.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...