Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't know what to think. There are several people here with Patrol clutches now. To you guys - How many hard launches has the clutch withstood so far?

Still got the button clutch in my R33 that came with it, but I can tell you my Patrol as seen plenty of high rpm launches... :( Pulled out a stump last weekend, front hubs locked, low range, dropping clutch at about 4.5-5krpms, clutch has never had a problem. My chassis and tow points (and the tyre marks on my driveway) on the other hand....

The cheaper 3ltr Patrol that was released (I think in the late GQ model days?? can't remember) uses a RB30 (no D, T or even E!) that produces about 2 or 3kw less at the flywheel than the RB30E in the VLs. A carby and high torque@low rpm tuning will do that to you though.

I think they would be fine for a stock to mildly tuned Skyline, but I can understand too many high rpm launches could start causing glazing and other problems. The compound used would be designed for low rpm clutching/declutching whilst towing, crawling along 4x4 tracks, etc - fairly tacky for high torque. Never designed for high rpm use.

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

should not be a problem for high rpm dumps with gtst.

the main difference will be the mesh will happen at lower rpm in a harder fashion.

4wd clutches clamp real hard at all rpm's and is effectively just like dumping them.

Just try driving one - its designed to be either on or off.

So it is not designed to be driven while riding the clutch - thats all.

If you take off with riding the slipping clutch all the time this clutch is not for you.

If you are either going to dump the clutch or let the clutch fully engage before accelerating it is perfect.

It comes down to this - are you able to engage the clutch before accelerating or do you have to slip it to get up to 2000rpm so you can then fully engage.

This is a question I don't know the answer to as I have yet to convert mine from auto.

So someone tell me what rpm do you fully engage the clutch and do you have to let it slip to get up to that speed?

The answer is...

If you can either dump the clutch or let the clutch fully engage before bashing the accelerator on it is perfect.

If you have to let it slip a lot then stay away from 4wd clutch as they get hot real quick due to the compound being designed for low slippage. By hot I mean they smell and get spongy.

One more thing you should consider is the maximum RPM designed for the clutch. The absolute last thing you want is the clutch exceeding its max RPM and exploding, most likely taking the flywheel with it. I've seen what happens when an RB20DET loses its flywheel at 4,000RPM, lets say the car was written off. Both chassis rails cut, smashed gearbox, broken engine block, bits of the flywheel smashed both wheels, bonnet, sliced open the firewall, smashed the windscreen, missed the drivers feet by about 20cm.

In other words, ensure your PRESSURE PLATE is rated to the suitable RPM.

I'll also add another point, if you want a standard clutch to feel better and have less throw from released to full engaged, get a clutch slave cylinder with a smaller bore diameter. What this means is you need to push the pedal less to achieve full release as less fluid will be required in the slave cylinder to throw out the clutch. This also increases the clutch pedal weight so it proves you dont get anything for free in this world :D

  • 1 month later...
got my clutch done on tuesday;

been taking a bit of getting used to as its fully engaged about an inch of the floor;

liking it though, feels way quicker, perhaps the old clutch was slipping more than i though;

Shouldnt a new clutch not engage until it is nealy out? doesnt it mean the clutch is stuffed if it is engaging an inch off the floor?

  • 1 month later...

Just spoke with Gavin Woods AutoTech and they said they will do the exchange and the clutch is suitable, the reason which they do not like doing them is that the fulcum point is different and therefore takes more stuffing around trying to get it fitted, other than that he said the clutch is fine and suitable!

Sorry meant fulcrum point, now I am far from a mechanic, but I _think_ it has to do something with the pedal and how it pushes/pulls on the clutch or where it meets the pedal or something, but I really do not have a clue, just trying to remember who I spoke to (who has done one of these) tried to explain to a dumbass like me:rofl:

  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Hi guys I need the part number for the  heavy Duty Daiken NISSAN PATROL CLUTCH that you guys are using the part number listed in one of the above posts was only for a standard clutch not a HD.

cheers

same here..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...