Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to take my car back to near on standard ready to sell as it never gets driven any more and i'd lose too much money selling it outright.

So for a lucky RB20 powered R32 owner i'm offering this to you, would much prefer a couple of minor motor mods on your rb20 at this price.

I owe no money on the car so therefore i'm in no rush to sell the car and am willing to take my time and be patient but in saying that i've priced the package up to sell not to dream.

Andrew/Joel: can i please leave this here for a couple of weeks then move it to the 4 sale section?

Basically i'm looking at 2 options for now:

1.) Give me your motor, gearbox, clutch, tailshaft and $7500 and i'll give you my motor, gearbox, clutch and tailshaft. (highly recommended option)

2.) Give me your motor and $5500 and i'll give you my motor

Mods are as follows:

Fully rebuilt Rb30 (has less than 7000kms on clock)

R32 Rb25de head (non vvt), fresh. GTR valve springs. (new valve stem seals etc)

Cleaned and flow tested GTR injectors (600cc injectors at an extra cost)

Z32 AFM

Adjustable cam gears ('aerospeed')

Garret GT35/40 internal wastegate (ford xr6 turbo) With 15 psi actuator

Apexi AP Engineering power fc with hand controller

Custom reground GTR cams

Custom catch can (optional)

no BOV

modified engine mounts

Rb25 Gearbox (91000kms)

Triple plate OS Gieken clutch (1000hp)

Modified tailshaft (to suit rb25 gbox)

(Engine bay i've tried to make look as standard as possible to keep 'prying' eyes away)

Motor is currently making 250rwkw's @ 12psi as seen at last sau dyno day (Boostworx). All thats needed to see 300+rwkw's is the injectors i've given as an option and a boost controller. This is the cheapest way an R32 owner will see 300rwkw's reliably!

Before anyone asks, no this can't be made legal (in an R32) in the eyes of police/regency and that the reason my car isn't over the top and when you pop the bonnet on my car it looks like a stock rb20 to 'most' people, i've had this motor in my car for 2.5 years and haven't had an issue even when it was a daily driver.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219964-want-an-rb30det-in-you-r32/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think Adrian (rad33) is interested in this!?

he is but doesn't have the cash at the moment.

By the way the motor is still in the car and will be until i take a deposit so the the prospective buyer can test drive it!

DAMN, this would be a torque monster!

i want it :(

thats the best thing about this motor.

Have had a few pm's about seperating parts, really only want to stick to the two options for now but may contemplate seperating later down the track if i can't get a sale.

Ahh such a pitty. :(

Hardly driven. :P

i know, its killing me and i know i'll probably regret it when its gone but i need to get something more practical, i really wanted to take it down the 1/4 too, hopefully A.I.R's done soon and i can take it for one run!

i know, its killing me and i know i'll probably regret it when its gone

In all honesty mate, been almost a year since I sold mine and I only miss it occasionaly. I don't miss having to watch my mirror

constantly for cops and all the hassle that goes with it, or the expense of running/insuring it!

Its awesome to drive down the 'bay or town whenever you want and not have to worry about police attention!

Good luck with the sale mate, someone will pick up a bargain

In all honesty mate, been almost a year since I sold mine and I only miss it occasionaly. I don't miss having to watch my mirror

constantly for cops and all the hassle that goes with it, or the expense of running/insuring it!

Its awesome to drive down the 'bay or town whenever you want and not have to worry about police attention!

Good luck with the sale mate, someone will pick up a bargain

your probably right chris as i will still be getting another performance car but something thats a little more practical and something that the mrs can drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...