Jump to content
SAU Community

Now Accepting Orders! Ati Super Dampers (harmonic Balancers) Gtr R32 R33 R34's,


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Absolute latest would be the 17th mate as thats when im placing the order.. Once I have your confirmation I'll send you the payment details etc.

Cheers,

Johno

Ive done abit of reading up on both the 500hp and 600-1000hp balancers but I havent found any information suggesting that the 600-1000hp balancers require maintenance every 1000km's or so.. Has anybody got any info to clarify this?? :whistling:

I've asked the question to our supplier and ATI directly. I should hear back from them shortly.

Updated,

918599 - STREET: R32, P/S, A/C, Alt Up to 500HP

1, skylinekid

917752 - STREET:R32, P/S, Air, Alt, 600–1000HP

1, johnbarry88

918598 - STREET: R33 & R34, P/S, A/C, Alt Up to 500HP

1, Shaun

2, NIS.26L - PAID

3, 260tech - PAID

4, YO880 - PAID

5, Angus Smart

6, J'z-R33

7, CameronBNR32

8, Omurru - PAID

917753 - STREET: R33 & R34 P/S, A/C, Alt, 600–1000HP

1, Smoky

2, [200]

3, [200]

For those who wanted them from the Aussie supplier pls send me your payments asap.

Latest payment and order update..

918599 - STREET: R32, P/S, A/C, Alt Up to 500HP

1, skylinekid - Payment Sent

917752 - STREET:R32, P/S, Air, Alt, 600–1000HP

1, johnbarry88

918598 - STREET: R33 & R34, P/S, A/C, Alt Up to 500HP

1, Shaun - payment sent

2, NIS.26L - PAID

3, 260tech - PAID

4, YO880 - PAID

5, Angus Smart - Payment Sent

6, J'z-R33 - PAID

7, CameronBNR32

8, Omurru - PAID

917753 - STREET: R33 & R34 P/S, A/C, Alt, 600–1000HP

1, Smoky

2, [200] - Payment Sent

what maodel would you want for a 26/30det application. only the up to 500 hp is what i would be after. would it jsut depend on the car the head came out of?? or would it be for r32 as it has the smalller crank drive??

any help

still would like to now if any one has an answer for me. as i broke my standard harmonic getting it off an i would preffere to upgrade rather then just replace

Hey Johnno, any news from the supplier or ATI??

hey mate,

certainly do, this is straight from ati.

'If it is a road race car and that is true you should replace the rubber

orings inside the damper. If it is a street car that isn't the case since a

street car won't see the 1000hp very often at all'

ahh 33 s2 - i'll look into this for you now.

cheers johno

still would like to now if any one has an answer for me. as i broke my standard harmonic getting it off an i would preffere to upgrade rather then just replace

The standard harmonic balancers are over $500 from Nissan anyway; so as you say, better to upgrade for less cost.

From what Ross Tuffbond have told me, the only difference between the different models of balancer is that the power steering drive on the R33/R34 item is further out than the R32 one. So it depends on which power steering set up your using.

On another topic, are all you guys going to install the balancers yourselves? I'll put mine in, but im a bit concerned about correct installation and the correct torque of the massive bolt that goes in the crank snout. From what ive heard, the correct torque of the RB26 crank bolt is significantly more (like 50% more) than that of the RB20 and RB25. I cant see any reason for this?

Has anyone with experience got any hints on how to undo the bolt in the first place or advice on what to watch out for when installing the balancer on an engine in the car?

Thanks,

Shaun.

Shaun, I'll be getting Paul (Red R Racing aka DirtGarage) to install my balancer..

Regarding removal of old Balancer: To get the bolt off the crank put the car in first gear (with the motor off) and undo it with a 27mm socket (I think its a 27mm) then use a 3 claw crank puller which you can buy from super cheap for $20.

Group buy is closing tonight at midnight. If anyone else is interested please contact me asap.

Latest payment and order update..

918599 - STREET: R32, P/S, A/C, Alt Up to 500HP

1, skylinekid - PAID.

918598 - STREET: R33 & R34, P/S, A/C, Alt Up to 500HP

1, Shaun - payment sent

2, NIS.26L - PAID.

3, 260tech - PAID.

4, YO880 - PAID.

5, Angus Smart - PAID.

6, J'z-R33 - PAID.

7, CameronBNR32 - payment sent

8, Omurru - PAID.

917753 - STREET: R33 & R34 P/S, A/C, Alt, 600–1000HP

1, Smoky - payment sent

2, [200] - PAID.

Group buy is now closed, I will finalise everything today and place the order.

Thanks to all involved and your prompt payments.

Cheers,

Johno

Hey all,

Order has been placed with the vendor. My bank require more details from the vendor and cannot process the payment until I have provided it which has resulted in a delay. I am expecting the info from the supplier early tomorrow (as its Sunday in the States today)

Sorry for the delay guys, I will push the supplier to get them here asap.

Cheers

Johno

I know mate, I cant wait to get mine either.. I will push as much as I can.

Payment has now been sorted (Finally) so they wont be too far off.

Hey Johno,

Any ideas of an eta? Do you think days or weeks? Im just trying to organise a date for my car to be tuned.

Thanks mate,

Shaun.

Hey all,

Balancers are on the way, they left the US last Friday via FEDEX 5-7 day service. As soon as they arrive I will be sending them out express.

Cheers,

Johno

anyone know offhand white size socket is needed for the balancer bolt on an R33 RB26? looks like 29/30mm? but i don't want to buy the wrong one in preperation

Kent

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...