Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Shop is in Smithfield. It is good, however the pin that holds the top handle in place fell to pieces and I haven't had time to replace it.

The foot pump seems to be good, however I really need to go over it and make sure everything is tight.

I'm going to use this jack at the track (even though it weighs 50kg) because the reach and height allows me to easily change tyres without having to drive onto blocks to get jack access.

hmm.. maybe this jacks a little to hardcore for what i need.

I just need a safe reliable jack, with added support of jack stands that will alow me to work on my car.

What would you recommend?

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'm a massive fan of Kincrome Tools and they have just released a Workshop range so I would check them out, although it really depends on what your budget is and what you want to use it for. Alloy is great as it is light however not always the best for heavier cars.

Your main concern should be the reach and the clearance.

This one looks like a match for you, http://www.tradetoolsdirect.com/Catalogue/...?CategoryID=257, I personally went for a ~$300 ~21kg aluminium jack, not quite super low profile but lowish (3.25inches approx), just not long enough.

looking for a jack as well was looking at spending at around 200-250

what do people recommend?

was goin to look at the autobarn aluminium racing one but it doesnt have long reach?

would this be good enough for just changing rims at the track and oil changes?

would prefer not to buy off a website, as freight cost will be through the roof... That CP jack looks awesome.

Anyone know if anywhere in Sydney sell those CP jacks?

Edited by Luke_GTS-T
would prefer not to buy off a website, as freight cost will be through the roof... That CP jack looks awesome.

Anyone know if anywhere in Sydney sell those CP jacks?

I got mine from VEK Tools, http://www.vektools.com.au/

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm also in the market for a jack.

Went through the whole thread..

saw this one a few times https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?...Code=J041#specs

did any1 here who mentioned it, end up getting these? any comments on it?

Also going to look at the GASWELD one..

I only need it for home use so weight won't really matter, needs to be decent low profile.. nothing over 10cm.

and not looking to spend too much above $300 - $350, since i won't be using it often.

However as every1 else, would much rather pay more for quality, than go cheapo n replace within a few uses.

  • 1 month later...

I've got the Bluepoint super low floor jack like the one pictured above...

Definitely a great jack, abeit fkn heavy!

Only dissapointing feature is the reach not being longer... I need one of these to reach my cross member on the 180sx :D

1828.JPG

Although having said that... Still can't do much about it as my car is pretty low. I don't think any other jack would do a better job than the Bluepoint one. Reaches the diff no dramas...

My Bluepoint jack + Astro Products ramps = Win ;) No ghetto spec wooden blocks for me lol

PSI Part (Shane): Can you still get those rubber pads for the jacking points still pictured in one of the previous pages? The Bluepoint jack doesn't come with one so I went to Clark Rubber to made one. It's effective, but would much rather the proper stuff as per the one you posted previously...

Cheers,

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...