Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, ive had this problem on my car for the last 3 months and havent driven it because of this.... its a new engine and when i first dropped it in ( 4 months ago) it used to have alot of umfff even if i tapped the pedal in 4th gear u used to feel it.. now.. it just sits there.. if i put my foot down it goes alrite to about 4 and then just sits at 4k rpm and just feels liek it wants to due but if i do half throttle it will rev higher.. it just feels liek its back burning like sputtering.. btw its a rb25 r33 i have changed afm, new coilpacks, new spark plugs, new fuel pump, new ignitor module, new coilpack loom and thats about it.. i couldnt think ov it being anything else. need help please

did it start doing these things before or after changing these things? Im assuming you have a S1 if you replaced the external ign. module, did u get the right AFM (S1 & 2 are diff). Whats the gap on your plugs etc.

lol yep, my mate has a s1 also so i just swapped every part in the fuel delivery system. except for the fuel filter which i'm swapping over tonight and the o2 sensor which i will also do tonight. apart from that im all out of ideas and beginning to think its the engine.. um i duno what gap the plugs are.. i just wound them down. and also thinking mayb a blocked cat.. just eliminating things one by one

Edited by skyline25t

um its got a highflow turbo, with a r32 stock actuator so 10psi boost, split dump pipe + 3.5 inch exhasut, cooler pod filter, and thats about it, it used 2 pull reall reall hard but now i cnt even get it over 4k rpm under full load.. the o2 sensor is farked i think also.. coz the wires are liek electrical taped 2gether so i'll see if thats the problem later tonight

but it used to run beautifully and then one day something happened and its doing this now.. mayb not 10psi but 7psi..because it could be a r33 actuator i'm pretty sure it is because it would hit r & r..

the stock turbo at 10 psi on an RB25 makes it hit r&r.

a highflow turbo with the same boost will be even worse.

The sparkies might help but in reality, some sort of tuning is required.

had similar issues with my 32, rb26det, when we changed the turbo to a garrett 3582 external it was out flowing the stock afm and would start spluttering as the injectors went full duty. it would be okay till about 3500 4000 rpm then would run like dogs balls.

we lenghthened the intake pipe from turbo to afm, changed the afm to a z32 and had a fitting for the recirc valve plumbed to it facing directly back into the impeler on the turbo and solved the issue.

you should at least get on a rolling road and get it tuned properly. it was worth it in my case anyway.

Edited by nizmonut

i jsut took the car for a quick spin now... i noticed a few other problems..

after a few minutes of driving the the hicas starts playing up and goes on and off repeatedly and the steering is fkt.. also car wont rev above 2k and it seems liek all power it lost and then just dies off by itself.... oh and also the lights start flickering and the rev gauge goes up and down and flickers this is just before the car turns off.

Edited by skyline25t

sounds like a bucket of shit. lol..

so all this started happening after the new engine went in?

go back to where you got the engine put in.

if you put it in yourself, it is now time to go to a place that knows skylines.

some things are better left to the experts.

I would try dropping the cat, check fuel flow/pressure, easiest way is to stick it on a dyno, but to make the most of your setup, your eventually going to really need to get same management. Is it running 10 or 7 psi, it makes a big difference to diagnosing the problem. When it seems to stop, does the boost gauge (im assuming you have one) drop into vacuum, or stay in boost.

yeah i did drop it in myself.. the funny thing iz it was working sick for a while but now not so good lol, i'm lookin for a place to take it now.. if anyone is from melbourne do you know or recomend any places that is good value and know there skylines.. i'm in sandringham

sounds like a bucket of shit. lol..

so all this started happening after the new engine went in?

go back to where you got the engine put in.

if you put it in yourself, it is now time to go to a place that knows skylines.

some things are better left to the experts.

or you could try RE Customs in westall/springy..

A strange idea for something to check as everything is turning on and off, is your alternator in good condition? I only say that as i have experienced similar probs in cars before which turned out to be that!.. Just a thought seeings engines have been changed etc..

-Daniel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...