Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I just installed some 2nd hand coilovers on my r33 gtst and there seems to be a knocking noise coming from the rear passenger side.

When i bump the car (ie jump in the boot) theres no noise, but when i rock the car side to side it seems to make a knocking noise.

I got underneath the car while we rocked it side to side, and the noise seems to be coming from something around the hicas system.

And when i held onto the hicas system it felt like something was knocking/shocking it.

Im abit confussed about whats happening as im sure nothing was hitting anything and postive it didnt make this noise before.

Can anyone help me with this?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220277-suspensions-knocking-noise/
Share on other sites

Hey

i just got the car off the ground, and shaked the rear wheels (toe in and out), it makes the usual noise, but it also moves the other rear wheel. I thought the HICAS system would be stiffer then this. also when i do it to the other side it does the same thing, moves the other wheel and makes a noise. DOes this mean my HICAS is stuffed? or something.

cheers

sound is pretty typical because not youve got alot of fast pace rebound and it shakes things up. the hicas system moving like that is an issue it should not be doing that, perhaps get a lockbar for the system - its crap anyway.

Its ment to engage at speed and lock when neutral so something deff wrong

Is your HICAS light on?

Cheak you power steering fluid level.

Bleed the HICAS system and cheak for bubles.

Slap in a HICAS lock bar

Cheak all mounting points of the coilover..

Cheak to see everything is screwed in nice nd tight - did you double cheak after installing the coilovers?

thats my 2c of your options.

Is your HICAS light on?

Cheak you power steering fluid level.

Bleed the HICAS system and cheak for bubles.

Slap in a HICAS lock bar

Cheak all mounting points of the coilover..

Cheak to see everything is screwed in nice nd tight - did you double cheak after installing the coilovers?

thats my 2c of your options.

Hey

Nah my HIcas light isnt on

and i thought the r33's didnt use a hydraulic HICAS system, it was electric, correct me if im wrong.

so if its electric, the power steer and bubbles in HICAS system wont fix

i double checked all mounting points on install!, might put a lock bar in and see what happens

cheeers

Hey

Nah my HIcas light isnt on

and i thought the r33's didnt use a hydraulic HICAS system, it was electric, correct me if im wrong.

so if its electric, the power steer and bubbles in HICAS system wont fix

i double checked all mounting points on install!, might put a lock bar in and see what happens

cheeers

yep 33 is electric

When you say your hicas is loose, is that with the car running, or engine off?

I have only ever tried moving it off the ground when the car was off.

But it makes the same sound when the wheels are on the ground and i rock the car side to side.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

I seem to have this same issue. I can hear the knocking when I drive - always from the left rear side. Have bilsteins in there. The play is coming form inside the HICAS unit - not the bush/ball joint at the wheel end of the rod. So I guess this is the same thing. Very audible when going over small bumps/ripples, sounds like it's falling apart.

Is there any bushes or ball joint in the HICAS that could be broken?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...