Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its probably a stupid question, more out of curiousity then wanting to actually do it, but is it possible to shutdown 2 or 3 cylinders while driving for fuel economy? ie turn off some of the injectors temporarily or another way? im sure its not that simple and theres probably some bad effects on the engine/fuel system which is why no one does it, but if someone could explain why its not possible i would be interested to know. i was thinking of a 8 cylinder engine i read about a while ago that runs on half its cylinders to save fuel economy until you floor it, and then it runs on all the cylinders.

theres a bit of information on the internet about it 'firing on half-cylinders' or 'cylinder deactivation' but im interested if its possible to implement a similar thing on standard cars.

its all in the ecu.

The new computer from ray hall would probly be capable of doing this if they wanted too.. i dont think there are any aftermarket ecu's that do it at the moment.

Make one. let me know how you go :(

Its both electrical and mechanical

From what i've kind got to understand its actually the valves on the particular cylinder being held open through the use of oil, flow of oil to hold the particular valves open obviously would be commanded by the ecu once it knows the car is at a cruising point where it can shutdown cylinders. i had it explained to me a few weeks ago but i forgot how and what actually happens. we were talking about it at work today, its how I kind of remember.

i think maybe its like vvti, vtec? where the valves are open for a little longer at higher rpm, but instead constantly held open

dont quote me on this either, as im not 100% but will definately find out again.

Apparently this function is already in the VE commodores, but due to vibration are not enabled.. so we'll most probably see it on the next series once they have their vibration problems sorted.

Edited by shAkIeL

what im interested to know, is just say you can make a switch that turns off three of the injectors, and use this switch when you dont need power (ie driving in traffic) im pretty sure you can turn off injectors using a laptop connected to consult port, but if you do this, is it safe for the engine, and would it screw up the fuel mixtures etc? i would have though if half the injectors are available, half the fuel is being delivered, and its in proportion so it should still run ok but with much less power? or is it more complicated then that?

some information on the net says the engines that have this done (using the physical system on the valves of the cylinders), get up to 20% more fuel economy.

With factory cars that do it they keep the valves open, as if you just turn the injectors off you will still have mechanical loses from compressing air. It will also run incredibly lumpy and probably not idle properly.

Basically dont bother unless you feel like engineering a head that can force the valves open.

What i do know is that the system in the Chrysler 300C actally alternates which cylinders are shut down, otherwise you would have uneven wear within your engine.

And according to reviews in some major motoring publications, it doesnt really give a dramatic improvement in real world economy.

Its still all new technology so I dont think we're going to see any real improvement in fuel economy from cylinder deactivation for a couple of vehicle generations yet.

I think its only a sales gimmic...like hybrid cars. Pseudo-green cars.

In my opinion you want economy go buy a new diesel golf. (i die a little inside when i suggest someone buys a diesel).

Would be a laugh to try it, pick up a sh!t box from a wreckers and wire a switch to deactivate 2 injectors like you suggested. Just dont spend any money on the thing.

I think it's a stupid idea, just for marketing really at a time when people are more fuel conscious. All that mechanical energy is being wasted by driving the inactive pistons, its just stupid. I like the idea of having a smaller capacity turbo charged engine, and using right foot to lower consumption.... Not that that actually ever works in real life hehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...