Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You'll need a heat gun/hair dryer and a blade. Something like an emo blade, then heat and slice/carve away...

I've read a few stories of people trying to remove tint themselves and they've all recommended others to get it professionally done. Only $80 or so anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220402-removing-tint/#findComment-3887375
Share on other sites

i did mine my self

yes it can be a bitch but why pay some one money to do it when you can do it your self

as long as ur not a drop kick you'll be fine

i just ripped the tint off and used hot soapy water and sharp emo blades lol to get the glue off

it does take time but so what

and apparently there is this spray u can buy which you just spray on to the sticky stuff and u just wipe it off but i couldnt find it any where

hope this helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220402-removing-tint/#findComment-3887516
Share on other sites

i thougth it was ok to have darker tint on the back and rear quarts. its just the drivers and passengers that have to be legal

A topic about tint came up in the Vic section a few months back and it's only legal to have the rear quarter windows dark. So pretty much the windows that the driver need to look through to drive can't be darker than 30% (I forget the exact number :D ).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220402-removing-tint/#findComment-3889081
Share on other sites

Easy!! Done it many times! all you need to do is peel the tint off and you will notice the sticky gluish residue on the window. this part is the bitch part. all you need is a spray bottle with water or window cleaner in it and a razor blade with a handle and start spraying and scraping away. it may take time but unless u want to pay someone to do it its gonna take alot more time to get your car checked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220402-removing-tint/#findComment-3889382
Share on other sites

i did mine my self

yes it can be a bitch but why pay some one money to do it when you can do it your self

as long as ur not a drop kick you'll be fine

i just ripped the tint off and used hot soapy water and sharp emo blades lol to get the glue off

it does take time but so what

and apparently there is this spray u can buy which you just spray on to the sticky stuff and u just wipe it off but i couldnt find it any where

hope this helps

Time is money.

If its going to take me 3-4 hours of time, and fiddly at that

For $80, its money well spent and lets one do other things.

Fair enough if you sit @ home all the time and dont work/leave the house etc... DIY probably would be worth while... include purchasing blades, cleaners etc knock another $10-$15 off the price off someone with the tools doing it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220402-removing-tint/#findComment-3890285
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for the insight lads. I may just get someone do to it properly as time is quite tight at the moment.

Also, While failing me for tint they also got me for the child restraint brackets. They are in the middle of the speaker and "should" be in front of it. WTF do i do to fix that??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220402-removing-tint/#findComment-3893307
Share on other sites

If your car has been complied by an authorized workshop you will have no trouble passing with those child restraints where they are.

The fact the cops even picked on you for that is stupid. The workshop has all the certs/tests etc required to say that they are effective where they are.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220402-removing-tint/#findComment-3893315
Share on other sites

i thougth it was ok to have darker tint on the back and rear quarts. its just the drivers and passengers that have to be legal

It's all respective of the state you live in....

For NSW, the law is the rear windows and windscreen can be as dark as 5% tint, with NO tint on the front side windows, and only the top 10% of the front windscreen tinted as well (For business vehicles and taxis)

Or

All windows no darker than 35% tinting all around, but only the top 10% of the front windscreen tinted (for business vehicles, and taxi's).

For passenger cars, the NSW rules are no darker than 35% tint all around, and only the top 10% of the windscreen tinted.

This can be different for other states, and thus you need to check your local area.

As for the 2 defect issues, There is a spray you can get to break down the tinting glue, call up a local tinter and ask them the best thing to remove tint before you take it to them for re-tinting (if you take it or not is not their business, but if they think your making their life easier, it will help you get the information).

As for the restraints, they will be checked off on your compliance stickers.

Something everyone needs to remember is that a Police officer's "defect list" is not an actual list of defects on the vehicle, but a list of the things he believes should be checked by someone that knows the ADR requirements, and regulations of the local area. For a cop to ping you for stuff like this, either he didn't get his coffee and doughnut, or you didn't pass his personality test.

For an example, yesterday I took a highway patrol officer for a drive in my car, because he had never been inside a Skyline GTR in a 'civil' environment (off duty). He pointed out the lack of H-pattern on the gear lever (can place a sticker within 10cm of the gear lever to comply in NSW), and the twin POD filters under the bonnet, but other than those things, he said unless I really upset the officer, I would be sweet with.

He also mentioned a simple cover on the PODs will not surfice, as the legal requirement for NSW is a SEALED enclosuer for the pod filters.

Personally, I have heard mixed 'stories' about the child restraints, from rear speakers removed and restraint clips fitted, to restraint clips fitted stock BEHIND the speaker grills, but this is still debatable, and should be covered under the compliance of the imported car.

Good lock with everything.

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220402-removing-tint/#findComment-3893356
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, nothing formal, just open track days. Mostly small and tight circuits but I would like to get back out to Eastern Creek at some stage.
    • What type of track driving will you be doing?  Do you have a set of class rules you need to abide by that will limit your rim / tyre width?
    • I've been reading a lot lately about unsprung weight and how beneficial it can be to reduce it for driving on the track, given my semi's only have another day or two in them I am throwing around the idea of some lighter wheels and a square set up. I have 265/35/19's and 245/40(?)/19 Federal 595's at the moment. The wheels and tyres are super heavy. I looked up my wheel weight online and got 14.5kg naked. Not sure if this was 8.5 (front) or 9 (rear) but that's a lot. I have also been reading about the benefits of a square setup. Much better rotation and potentially less understeer.  When I throw these together I'm thinking about a 17x9 or 18x9 square (preferably under 10kgs per wheel) with 245 or 255's. I can get some cheap 17x8.5 BMW M Sport wheels, they weight 10.5 kg's each but at 8.5 wide could probably only get 245's on them? I know they come with 255's from factory but semi's are a bit chunkier. Otherwise it will be aftermarket wheels in a 9" width. Most of the other BMW wheels are heavy unless you pay a squillion dollars for some M wheels.  Although, the E46 M3 Style 67's could be good but I'd have to buy 2 sets to square them up.  My car has a tickle over 400hp and about to put an LSD in also, is 245 a little thin for a square setup? It kinda feels that way to me. Also, is there any tangible benefit to having 18's over 17's? Is the footprint demonstrably bigger? From those of you who went to light(er) wheels after heavy buggers, did you notice it much?
    • Start with the R32 GTR wiring diagram. The ECU is essentially the same, so the pinouts are good. The details around ECCS relays, etc might differ a little bit, but the reality is that you need to get ignition power to kick the ECU so it powers up the ECCS relay which brings the rest of the ECU up. This also gives power to the other circuits that are needed to make the engine run, like the ignition coils, etc. All of this is visible on the R32 diagram and should give you a strong guide, even if it's not quite the same as the R33. As to specifics - I'm pretty sure no-one can help you from afar, as there is no way to know what mistake or omission has been made in connecting stuff up. It always turns out to be "LOL, I shorted something and an entire wire vanished out of the loom", or "We never connected X or Y main connector", or "shit, you mean I need to have that fuse installed?".
    • hello wanted some insight on what my problem could be so i swapped a RB26DETT into my r33 gtst used a R33 GTR engine harness and im using a haltech platinum pro. The car cranks but no start the ecu isn’t getting any power now im trying to find out why i cant seem to find any schematics  or diagram for the engine harness for the r33 gtr anything helps thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...