Jump to content
SAU Community

Taking An Uncomplianced Car Over On The Spirit Of Tasmania


Recommended Posts

Hey guys I was just wondering who has taken an uncomplianced vehicle or a vehicle on an unregistered vehicle permit across on the Spirit of Tasmania? I called the other day and they said that I needed to have a RWC on the car to take it on, but the reason it is on an unregistrable vehicle permit is because it isn’t road worthy.

If anybody could give me any advice or let me know of any experiences they have had with this it would be great. I have checked out freight options and that looks like it may be the go at this point, however it would be somewhat of a hassle to get the car to the docks.

Cheers

Ryan

when we took a heap of targa cars to Winton for the 6hr race back in 2003 we just used temp permits and they were happy, but they got stressed about some of them not having number plates to begin with. i reasoned with them that they were are all tidy well kept cars and they came around.

Thanks for that Stuart. When I was on the boat last time there were 3 fully caged evos on there with no plates and plastered in stickers so Im not sure about the whole RWC thing, i think its a crock of shit, my car is more road worthy thatn some of the old cooners Ive seen boarding before

Wack some false plates on it (for the boat jouney only)....they don't/can't check with the authorities, they just need a number to put in their system to complete the order.

yeah some of the cars we took to winton still had their targa plates on and we booked them with those numbers, but had permits as they don't have real rego attached and they weren't stress about those cars at all!

When i first brought my car over, spirit of tas website showed that u had to put a rego in to book it, so i just typed NO-REGO and hey presto it let me book the journey and they didn't say much on the boat when loading the car.

car needs to be roadworthy, it would have to be put over the pits to get an unregistered vehicle permit, if the car has a uvp it must have already passed as roadworthy vehicle, the uvp will allow you to get the car from a to b only. permits are only valid for a short time, im sure it was 7 days for me after the car was blue slipped (passed as roadworthy).

also if the same rules apply here as they do in NSW, once a car has an unregistered vehicle permit and the time period expires it is no longer able to be extended or you can not get another permit for that vehicle.

when we got the ute from NSW it had to be blue slipped and roadworthy and passed over the pits to get the uvp. a uvp certificate at the minimum has to be applied before they would allow it on the spirit of tas.

it is a hassle, but cant be avoided.

It doesnt need to go over the pits in VIC to get a permit, what a joke, in vic you can get them over the phone. Pretty much everything you said doesnt apply, but thankyou, I do appreciate the input anyway (serious)

Anyway, cars here so all the doubters, NER NER NER

THREAD OVER

that is a joke!

will make it easy to transport a burnt out 3 wheeled unregistered vehicle.......

did the vehicle have to be inspected or pass any criteria before it was permittable for road access?

was the car permittable for road access in both states or did it need to be on a trailer?

NSW RTA being more stricked on road and transport than any other state of australia, that will all apply regaurdless to where in australia its being driven (except WA i think, where UVP's dont cover).

it would probably be only a matter of time till legislations will be passed where all states in australia will be as hard and stricked on any form of vehicle transport and registrational status.

yeah vic and tas run the same sight unseen issuing of temp permits for up to 42 days... a mate actually got a permit to drive his formula vee on the road a few years ago to run in the engine!

that is a joke!

will make it easy to transport a burnt out 3 wheeled unregistered vehicle.......

That’s a bit of overkill, it is a "roadworthy" vehicle, it was able travel from Caulder to the boat and then to move onto and off the boat all under its own power. All lights and indicators work, no leaks of any sort, tires are good, it’s not overly low and I can put silencers in the pipes to quiet it down.

Straight from VICROADS:

1. A vehicle to be used between the hours of 7:00pm and 7:00am, except in the following circumstances -

• where a vehicle is collected from the place of purchase to be driven to the residence of the owner or the garaged address nominated on the permit; or

single trip journeys where specified on the permit form

Show me a burnt out three wheeled shell that can do that :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...