Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

Currently running 255/45s front and rear on ce28N volk rims but the fronts sometimes rub/grab the guard lip when turning and going over a reasonable bump. Running tein coilovers, not sure what weight or rates and as far as I know standard upper and rear camber arms. Do you think I could fix the front guard grabbing problem simply by getting some adjustable upper arms and adding some negative camber so that it turns the top of the tyre inwards? It has actually pulled the inside of the guard lip down a bit and I want to rectify the problem before it gets any worse or do some track work.

Ill try to get some pics tonight and check to see what arms im running and what rates/type the coilovers are. I wouldnt mind some neg. camber anyway to add to the mean stance and would definitely help with any track work I do (not serious track work though :P).

P2110006.jpg

Cheers!

Gagz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220879-guard-hitting-issuesadd-camber/
Share on other sites

Yeah camber will definitely help. It doesnt look like its sticking out too far at the back, assuming you're running same size rims front and back. Mine sticks out worse at the rear and I dont get guard rubbing at the front.

Or you can remove the inner guard lining too which will help a bit. If worse comes to worse just roll the inside of the lip upwards and your problems will be solved :P

Why not just roll the guards?

If you run more neg chamber your going to get uneven tyre wear depending on how much you run..

You could also stiffen the spring even further so it does not compress as much and doesn't rub/touch.. this of coure means that the ride will be even more uncomfortable..

If you unnecesserally add neg chamber you lessen the contact patch of the tyre in a straight line.. hence less grip in a straight line.. but it neg chamber helps during corners as the chassie leans into the corner with the weight.. it evens out the the chamber making the tyre sit flat on the ground and hence maximising your contact patch..

Just some food for thought..

Edited by GTS4WD

Yeah knew all that but thanks GTS4WD....thinking of only running 1 to 1.5neg camber, nothing huge and my coilovers are already at their stiffest setting which gets complaints from the ol' folks :laugh:...don't know whether the springs are progressive ones, might help.

Don't want to risk cracking the paint so rolling the guards is my last option.

Cheers!

Gagz

Yeah I suppose that is one solution but I like the height its at as it fills the guards nicely and still negotiates all speed bumps and driveways fine so I'm really looking for a solution to keep it the way it is.

Talking to Sydney Kid though, he says minimum wheel centre to guard distance is 355mm front and 345mm rear, where I've got the opposite, 345mm front and 355mm rear...so maybe the front can come up a little :)

Cheers!

Craig

Edit - correcting my first post, the tyres are 255/40/17s..Cheers!

Edited by R31 Gagz

The more usual ride height for the front is 355, 345 on the rear. This will help avoid your issue on the front but may cause them on the rear. It will also help the car to handle better.

255 width tyres on a 17" rim should clear in most cases - as long as the wheel offset is correct. It should be a +22 which will be written on the inside of the rim (You need to take it off)

the EXACT same thing happens on my 32, thought i fixed it by rolling the inside of the lip up but that didnt do anything..so im going to get some coil overs soon, ill be keen to know how you fix it when ya do get it fixed.

Hey All,

Never really looked that close before the other night, but my coilovers are Tein type NA which arent height adjustable and about the softest of the range according to Sydney Kid. So for now ill probably just apply a front camber kit with about 1 to 1.5deg negative camber to try and get around the problem. Once i've got some more cash Ill go the whole SK suspension kit :O.

Thanks everyone for their input and help.

Cheers!

Craig

Similar thing happened to my HR31, I removed the inner guard (taped and tied the cables up) and attacked the inside of the lip with a hammer. Result: no more scrubbing.

Even with more camber if its only happening on hard lock the tyre is still going to be sticking out the guard a fair bit so it may not help at all. However more camber will help with handling so it can't hurt to try.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...