Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a nissan pathfinder 87 model, it has huge mud tyres an its gutless..

it has a 2.4lt carby engine with a z on the rocket cover..

can any1 in here explain??????

for engine conversion what would replace this as engine size, as to just transplant something in the pathfinder,

and or what can be done to this engine to give it more balls..

it doesnt see 4x4 tracks but occasional mud bash here an there, so getting mud in intakes or water wont be an issue, as it will hardly or never see it..

more of a show pony 4x4..

thanks chris..

GF's dad has a GQ... well... what's left of one anyway.

Runs a 350 chev in a FG panneled tube chassis :P Fuel injection carbied too.

so it's a little over the top for what you need, but a RB30e would work (low down torque) cheap option. You want an NA petrol where possible as mud and intercoolers infront of radiators do not mix well.

heres a site that i'm a member of that may be use to you.

http://www.mudrhino.com.au/

they sound like rb's, an i think they are..

but i think hey run the carby version???

there are a few around the western suburbs with vl turbo dose's lol, i just want a front mount cooler, or if its worth leaving this engine, put some side drafts on it??

if i can save on engine transplant to work this engine i will, but if its not worth it then, rb30 ftw i think..

high comp would be good aswell..

Edited by chris_r31
alot of pro buggies use the 1uzfe cos of its strength... is quite a small block for a V8 and my fuel consumption is quite good aswell... considering.

so do u have 1 of these v8's?

and u got any pics of what car its in? just want to compare engine size and then see if it looks like it will fit..

but still i would prefer a dose or even the sound of a lumpy carby with webbers...

Heres a pic of my engine bay.... bare in mind that the celsior/ls400 is high luxury... so theres heaps(shit loads) of electrics cramed in there... there much shorter then an inline 6

DSC02637.jpg

you can see the rocker covers on each side... and there pretty big tyre wells for the factory airbag susp (no longer installed in my car).....

Definatey not small, they are very tall and wide, just not long.

Absolutley not small,

If you want a V8 just buy a crate Small Block Chev or Ford Windsor, There are conversion kits absolutley everywhere for these into patrols/Cruisers etc.

So what you pay extra in buying the crate donk you save by not having to have custom bellhousings and what not made up.

post-50030-1211800568_thumb.jpg

what about a rb30e powered holden rodeo with a gts4 auto box with a top mount intercooler?

oh and the "legal" side exit exhaust under the door sill rail.

this is what i use to tow my skidder to the drifts

nismonut, is this a slap on job, high comp rb30??

how is it on the tow, torque wise and with auto..

rb30's r cheap an i think best bang for buck, i have a high powered rb30, but dont wont to put it in the pathfinder.. i wana go turbo now, just seen a mates patrol and it has 1 tuff dose..

you have the mighty z24 motor like my 89 navara. if you want to be silly you can put a z18et head on it and have a 2.4l 4 cylinder turbo that can't rev past 5000 lol.

vg30et out of later navara/pathfinder is very cheap second hand from japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...