Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a nissan pathfinder 87 model, it has huge mud tyres an its gutless..

it has a 2.4lt carby engine with a z on the rocket cover..

can any1 in here explain??????

for engine conversion what would replace this as engine size, as to just transplant something in the pathfinder,

and or what can be done to this engine to give it more balls..

it doesnt see 4x4 tracks but occasional mud bash here an there, so getting mud in intakes or water wont be an issue, as it will hardly or never see it..

more of a show pony 4x4..

thanks chris..

GF's dad has a GQ... well... what's left of one anyway.

Runs a 350 chev in a FG panneled tube chassis :P Fuel injection carbied too.

so it's a little over the top for what you need, but a RB30e would work (low down torque) cheap option. You want an NA petrol where possible as mud and intercoolers infront of radiators do not mix well.

heres a site that i'm a member of that may be use to you.

http://www.mudrhino.com.au/

they sound like rb's, an i think they are..

but i think hey run the carby version???

there are a few around the western suburbs with vl turbo dose's lol, i just want a front mount cooler, or if its worth leaving this engine, put some side drafts on it??

if i can save on engine transplant to work this engine i will, but if its not worth it then, rb30 ftw i think..

high comp would be good aswell..

Edited by chris_r31
alot of pro buggies use the 1uzfe cos of its strength... is quite a small block for a V8 and my fuel consumption is quite good aswell... considering.

so do u have 1 of these v8's?

and u got any pics of what car its in? just want to compare engine size and then see if it looks like it will fit..

but still i would prefer a dose or even the sound of a lumpy carby with webbers...

Heres a pic of my engine bay.... bare in mind that the celsior/ls400 is high luxury... so theres heaps(shit loads) of electrics cramed in there... there much shorter then an inline 6

DSC02637.jpg

you can see the rocker covers on each side... and there pretty big tyre wells for the factory airbag susp (no longer installed in my car).....

Definatey not small, they are very tall and wide, just not long.

Absolutley not small,

If you want a V8 just buy a crate Small Block Chev or Ford Windsor, There are conversion kits absolutley everywhere for these into patrols/Cruisers etc.

So what you pay extra in buying the crate donk you save by not having to have custom bellhousings and what not made up.

post-50030-1211800568_thumb.jpg

what about a rb30e powered holden rodeo with a gts4 auto box with a top mount intercooler?

oh and the "legal" side exit exhaust under the door sill rail.

this is what i use to tow my skidder to the drifts

nismonut, is this a slap on job, high comp rb30??

how is it on the tow, torque wise and with auto..

rb30's r cheap an i think best bang for buck, i have a high powered rb30, but dont wont to put it in the pathfinder.. i wana go turbo now, just seen a mates patrol and it has 1 tuff dose..

you have the mighty z24 motor like my 89 navara. if you want to be silly you can put a z18et head on it and have a 2.4l 4 cylinder turbo that can't rev past 5000 lol.

vg30et out of later navara/pathfinder is very cheap second hand from japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...