Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do you think its possible to build an r33 gtr that will do 10sec 1/4mile @ 140mph on pump fuel?

Im trying to get some info for a friend whose looking at building a new car that will go 10sec or quicker yet run 140mph or close to it all on 98 pump gas.

So far he is looking at the 2.8l stroker, usual mods, head work cams, proper fuel set up. Turbo he is looking at the new turbonetics GTK1000.

I know its abit of a hows it going question but any information would be help full. Those who have run 10sec passes could you list your mods and times and mph.

Thanks

h

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220953-10sec-14-mile-140mph-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Bobbo here in WA ran 10.2 at 122mph with T76.

The low MPH is because he missed 5th gear and coasted across the line.

The car had 672rwhp and was running a T88-34D with a HKS 2.8L and HKS H-Pattern Dog Box (pump fuel, no NOS).

he hasnt got much aCCess to c16 or so. I know tens in a GTR is doable how ever, what about say hi 9s at 140mph? for some reason his goal is to hit 140mph down the 1/4 on pump fuel at what ever quickest time.

i run high 9's on Sunoco fuel @ 139.6MPH...but im holding the car in 3rd gear so i dont MPH quicker, 9100rpm in 3rd = 139 MPH

this not only affects MPH but obviously the ET as well.

reason for this is i have no parachute and dont wish to be logged by ANDRA stewards for breaking 140

Cars engine is so efficient it only produces 30 more KW on Sunoco than with BP98..so the statement that "race fuel unlocks HEAPS more power" is not correct, it depends how efficient or inefficient the engine is. A less efficient engine will see more of an increase with race fuel. Race fuel in more efficient engines is generally run for safety and a bit of tuning "headroom" (this is the only reason we run sunoco).

so with parachute fitted and pulling 4th gear with pump fuel id say its more than possible to run 9's @ 140 on pump.

Edited by DiRTgarage

How much more ignition timing do you run from BP to sunoco? when i tried BP to Elf turbo max i could easily run 15 degrees more. As you would know simply switching to race fuel does nothing, but gives you the opportunity gain the extra power.

Edited by GTR1993
How much more ignition timing do you run from BP to sunoco? when i tried BP to Elf turbo max i could easily run 15 degrees more. As you would know simply switching to race fuel does nothing, but gives you the opportunity gain the extra power.

wont quote our timing figures but only ever run up to 6 deg more on race fuel.

we still make massive power and run the numbers at the track for the set-up we have.

Also have only ever broken 1 engine (oil pump failure) and that was due to over revving and ignition cut rev limiter....not tuning

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...