Few R30 Questions

[guska]

Hey all. I just picked up an R30 Hatch today, with head issues. I'm not sure if it's the actual head or just the gasket. My plan is to grab a head from Pick and Pay Less and get it tested and machined, however a mate has mentioned that he heard you can't shave an L series head. Is this true? I have an L24E

Also, would sedan tail lights (with the 'hotplates') fit a hatch?

How hard is it do do a manual conversion? What stuff would I need aside from the box, bell housing, tailshaft(?), flywheel, clutch (and associated accessories) and pedal box? I mean for simply getting it to work, asthetics are something I can work out later, but right now I just want to look at giving this slipping sludgebox the arse.

[Ghostrider]

Everything good in R30 Skylines is interchangeable.

But depends on your model, if it's Series 1, up to 1983, you will need to change the wiring on the back of the hotplates to suit your model if they are Series 2, after 1983 and vice versa if you understand that bit.

As for not being able to shave the head ...................... tell your mate to get a manager, because he has been handling himself far too long.

The problem is the distance between the cam & the crank, to keep the chain tention right. If you shave 0.040 (40 thou) of the head you need to pack the cam towers the same amount.

If you can hang off for a bit I might have an N42 280ZX head going up for grabs (for sale)

Cheers, D

[guska]

Mine is a Series 1, being 1982. I understand changing the wiring, thats easy. When I grab hotplates from PnPL (if they have some) I'll just grab a big section of wiring as well... stuff it in my pocket or something.

If you pack the cam towers, wouldn't that give les lift on the valves? Or would I then just adjust the clearances to suite?

I can't hold off too long, as the head that's on the car is cracked. Either that or a blown gasket. Is the 280ZX head injected? And would it be just a straight swap?

This is the beast

Edited May 31, 2008 by guska

[Ghostrider]

You will be very .................. I would go as far as saying, extremely lucky to find hot plate R30 tail lights at PnPL, as they were an JDM only product. For Hotplate tail lights you would best be looking in ebay or contact SSS on 98966111 and they are going to cost you about $150 pair. The wiring is only what's on the light, to suit your harness. You might have to exchange the wiring off your standard lights to the hotplate lights so it connects to your rear harness, you don't need to hack off a load of cable & pocket it.

Just adjust the rockers/tappets accordingly to 0.010 for both inlet & exhaust if you need to shave your head.

Yes! the N42 280ZX head is off an injected motor. Would not have suggested it if it wasn't & yes it's a straight swap. All L series motors are the same external dimensions and therefore interchangeable. If your heading to PnPL it might be just as easy to pull a head from there, they probably wouldn't want a heap for it. You then have some options, either the R30 head or 280ZX heads, just don't take a P90 as your compression will go down the drain as it's the turbo head and needs flat top pistons to give good compression.

Cheers, D

[guska]

Ah fair enough then. Might look into the hotplate thing a little later then.

I don't *need* to shave my head, but I want to to up my compression to give a bit more poke. Not interested in engine transplants or turboing as it will be a daily, and not looking to spend a huge amount on it, or to have stupid amounts of power.

PnPL want $90 for a head if I pull it off myself, and they guy on the phone said that if I get it tested and it's stuffed, bring it back and grab another one.

Sorry if my questions sound stupid, but I have only really had experience with Holden 6s and RBs.

[noddle]

Not to be a negative person, but doesn't the "N42 280ZX head" have larger valves ?,

and to fit it on a L24 you have to "notch" the cylinders ?

Nigel

Edited June 1, 2008 by noddle

[blind_elk]

If you are in Melbourne, you can call around to my place and take my old L24E away (I've upgraded (?) to a L20ET).

[Ghostrider]

He's going to Pick n Payless at Blacktown NSW for the parts.

That might be right on the 44mm inlet valve with the 83mm bore. The exhaust is the same size at 35mm.

Probably best to look for a late model R30 head off an 84/85 series 2 which also might increase your compression a tad, because they had a 9:1 compression.

Sorry! but I'm sure I put something about the R30 head compression comparisons here yesterday. Must be going senile?

Cheers, D

[guska]

I am going to have an apprentice engine reconditioner mate give the head a haircut anyway, so initial compression isn't *REALLY* an issue.

Another quick Q

How much can generally safely be shaved off of an L24E head? I was thinking 30 thou or so, but my mate wants to take around 40 thou off it. I want to be able to run stock cams and ECU, and 95 octane at a minimum (will usually get 102 and octane boost).

[guska]

I'll ammend that question. What's the minimum head thickness?

[OUTATIME]

1mm is a bit to take off a head? i wouldnt really wanna take too much more if just gonna b a run about.

just 2 clean it up .020-.030" would b plenty...?

[Ghostrider]

If it doesn't look like a banana, 0.010 will be miles, but you're still going to have to pack up the cam towers no matter what you take off.

Some of the guys in the states have removed 0.060 - 0.080 from what they tell me, but they pack up the cam towers after and also use over sized lash pads.

Cheers, D

[guska]

it's not for cleaning it up, it's for increasing the compression. So 0.040 will be doable but a bit extreme?

[Factory 5]

you have a E88 head, which is lower compression than the N47

find a N47 (from a most 1984 versions) and drop that on, no need to shim this or that etc...

remember to re-tourque the head studs after a week or so, or youll end up with a water leak or worse.

[guska]

I am going to grab whatever I can find in the yard at Pick and Pay Less. How do I know what head is what? Would I be better off trying to find a 280ZX in there and nab the head from that? I have no idea about these engines, seriously.

[Ghostrider]

The head number is cast in the head and you will find it near the face between spark plugs 1 & 2.

As MAG86 said, for ease of everything, increase compression and have no machining other than maybe a clean up, get the late model S2 L24E head N47.

Your experience with the holden motors should tell you if it has had a blown head gasket which will be a good guide.

Cheers, D

[guska]

Never blown a head or gasket before, so i have no idea.

Now I am having trouble conjuring up a set of head bolts. Can only get the short ones genuine, and can't seem to find any at all aftermarket, even rang GEM Engines. Looks like it's off to the import spares mobs I go.

[noddle]

Now I am having trouble conjuring up a set of head bolts. Can only get the short ones genuine, and can't seem to find any at all aftermarket, even rang GEM Engines. Looks like it's off to the import spares mobs I go.

If you have money to burn, these may be useful

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-Head-St...sspagenameZWD1V

Nigel

[Ghostrider]

They are faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarkin expensive!

I got head & main studs for that much money and from US. Just have to search the net for the best deal. Stud kits for sure are the best, but your not building a high HP motor.

Guska, for what you want, use the standard set your taking out and the ones from PnPL and use the most matched out of both sets.

[guska]

I thought you couldn't reuse head bolts, as they stretch or whatever when they are put in? Speakig of which, what tension do I put on them? Just trying to get all my info sorted before I start rooting around.