Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[haw001]

Brad,

I'm interested in pursuing it further. At first glance I would have to think that getting access to the code for the standard Atessa would be the best possible option, if it can be had. I did have a lend of a modified one, so someone has it. A bit of investigation is in order.

[haw001]

I think to be effective you will need to use a brake input at the very minimum or a longitudinal G-Sensor would be better.

Most of the stress on the front diff would have to be under loaded cornering, ie when hammering out of a corner after a braking maneuver.

Most mechanical failures fall into 2 categories, the first is a result of long term wear and tear which weakens a part until it lets go. It's mostly a series of compound failures or small failures which grow until the part can't hold anymore.

The second is a caused by a rapid shift in the force applied which causes catastrophic failure. In this case the part may have been able to withstand the forces applied if brought on gradually. This is likely to be the problem with the front diff.

I know this is over simplified and not based on any testing, but it does make sense when you think about it. Come off the straight at full noise and you should be breaking until you are at least 30-40% into the turn, from there you immediately will hit the throttle to pull yourself out of the corner. Your revs should still be up so the power comes on strong and hard. At this point you a mid way through a hard arc, which means the front and rear diffs will be directing maximum power to one wheel each. Add to that a 50/50 split in power and you have the reason for the diff failing.

I'm pretty sure that Nissan were aware of the problem and have limited how fast the power is transferred for this reason. They bring it on gradually (relatively speaking) to avoid the shock.

[Beer Baron]

i reckon there is no doubt, the sort of development that has gone into things like gm or ford heads has never gone into rb heads. I'm not surprised there is still a lot to be learned.

and everyone know everything you've read on the internet is true.

Brad, the results you've got from your car power wise are amazing, same with Russ, same with Paul. Goes to show there is a lot you can do with little twin low mounts

there has been that level of development, just not in aus sadly. in japan there are guys who would have ported hundreds and hundreds of 26 heads for all different combos and uses. and there would be at least a dozen shops who know all the real tricks to get them working right with certain turbos, cams and capacities. in aus people just tend to do whatever they reckon 'she'll be right' but this takes a fair while and a fair few heads to get somethnig really good. I would say close to 50% of the time people in aus get their 26 head ported it's no better or even worse than factory (for their application). that's why I got my head ported and built in japan as the guy that did it has been doing probably 40+ a year for the last 20 years! that's a lot of heads. he certainly knows how to get results.

regarding the torque split I can tell you last time I was at Garage Saurus in japan i was talking to hayashi-san about their orange R32 GTR which was the Tsukuba time attack champion and record holder for some time. He told me they use a locked (via hydraulic hand pump and valve to hold the pressure) 50/50 torque split in their car and they found that for circuits like Tsukuba with quite a few tight corners that 50/50 locked was the fastest way 'round. he said they did have problems initially but were able to overcome them. He said not many people know that they use a constant 50/50 split, and that most GTR drivers are surprised when he tells them and few other tuners in japan are willing to try it due to the inherent weakness in having the front diff in the sump and the fact that it's quite small, but there must be some way to make it work. I would say geting the larger front diff cover to hold more oil would help and perhaps monitor the front diff temp to see if a cooler is required there too.

[Duncan]

ok Mark's turn to post the report and pics, including the amazing fingerprintless man! (I bet that will hurt for about a week)

in summary, rear subframe has bushes out, plates on, and un-hicas stuff all welded on. and about 300g of very hot metal which seemed to serve no purpose removed

[Duncan]

btw steve I like the look of your gearbox buy. in the end about the only thing we can't cut corners on is the gearbox (very happy to cut corners everywhere else lol), so we will probably grab a straight cut dog box from the guys at PAR...will chat to them this week, I don't fancy paying PPG or Hollinger prices so its either PAR or OS-giken - I would rather try the Aussie product.....a single japanese name part would seem very out of place in this car.

In fact the only 3 jap aftermarket parts I can think of on the car are the clutch (HKS triple), the cams (HKS huge cams) and the boost controller (blitz double thingy).

suspension (arms, shocks, springs) is all china. cooler and pump china. radiator and fan china. fuel tank and system american. seat china. wheel and boss china. manifolds, turbos, wastegate china. brakes china. moroso oil thingy american. cam gears china. pretty much everything else is either nissan or aussie garage spec.

[N1GTR]

No worries Duncan, ive got a whole list of questions from other SAU members to ask PAR so ill do that this week, but please mention the group buy when you call, numbers make all the difference

Remember.....you can choose your own ratios

[haw001]

I'm having internet problems at the moment which seems to be stopping uploading of attachments, so I'll have to add those later.

After a pretty shi__y start to the day, we were lucky to have Rob help us out with the cradle mods, which was fortunate as about half an hour into the work, I managed to burn the ends off the index finger and thumb picking up the cradle counter weights which had been removed a full half an hour prior. They are so think and solid that the steel just soaked up the heat and wouldn't let go of it for at least an hour.

It still has work to do on it, but the groundwork is done. I'll post the pics shortly.

[phunky_monkey]

Hey guys, you wouldn't happen to have your stock front GT-R swaybars for sale would you? A mate is chasing one down and needs it ASAP, so thought you may want to get rid of yours.

Cheers

[Angus Smart]

Ouch Mark,

Hopefully your hands are ok

[haw001]

Hey guys, you wouldn't happen to have your stock front GT-R swaybars for sale would you? A mate is chasing one down and needs it ASAP, so thought you may want to get rid of yours.

Cheers

Do have both front and rear. I can't get them this week, but Duncan probably can, he's sealing the motor on Wednesday I think.

[Duncan]

yeah we have both sway bars but we would need our drug mule (ie mark) to drag them down to melbourne next monday morning. that will be some pretty funny carry on, but will be easier than the bonnet and front bar he needs to bring back to sydney lol

[phunky_monkey]

Thanks guys. I'll speak to him and come back to you.

[phunky_monkey]

Oh, should probably ask how much you want for it?!

[haw001]

I'm not coming to Melbourne til the 23rd of November. Happy to bring them with me then, but if you need them before then they'll have to be shipped. It's possible that I may have a pallet coming down next week, but no guarantees.

[Beer Baron]

don't be shy with with the baggage!

I have carried:

1 X OEM nissan seat melbourne - sydney

1 X velo race seat (thanks dane) melbourne - sydney

1 X 19 X 13inch GT500 TE37 wheel from tokyo to Kyushu on the 7am commuter flight. that one got some looks as it came out on the carrousel.... especially since I was the sole white man on the plane full of japanese busness men

Plus literally hundreds of kilos of parts (inc OS twin plate, gauges, EBCs, cam gears, cams, etc etc) from tokyo - sydney.

hey, they may give you some funny looks but i've never been shut down yet. though once the wanker at melbourne tried to tell me I couldn't take my umbrella with me.

swaybars wont be too bad as at least the standard ones are nice and light (can't say the same for the whiteline ones though )

[phunky_monkey]

Haha I would have loved to be a fly on the wall seeing you lug around a 19x13 inch TE37

[Duncan]

whatever they are worth mate, $50ea I guess....wouldn't be worth shipping them though it would cost more than the bars themselves.

[haw001]

No problems bringing them down, just may have trouble calling them carry-on. The real struggle is going to be getting a bonnet and bumper back to Sydney!

[haw001]

Here are the pics from the weekend:

These are the bastard counter weights welded on to the cradle

And this is what happens when you pick one up to see how heavy they are even half an hour later. Anybody have any crimes they need comitted? I've got no fingerprints til they grow back.

Mount point for the anti-hicas toe arm. Still a work in progress

These are the mounts welded up. The brackets still need to be cut to the correct length and tidied up, but we won't do that until it's all mounted up and the ideal mounting point is determined. We'll drill new holes when we know what level it will be at.

Cadle mounts capped over and welded. Next I'll drill out holes in the correct location and the cradle will be solid mounted.

[Beer Baron]

cradle looks good. should make some good gains with it and it's nice being able to get rid of the compromised hicas removal solutions and just have a rear subframe that suits.

shame about the fingers though. there are not many worse places you can get burnt than on the pads of your fingers...