Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One of you boyz in Oz nab this car!!!! We NEED more cars like this in Australia!!!  

...I know it cost 60 grand but so what???

No, No, No!  

DO.... this is no try!:yoda: Somebody in Oz buy it!!!  

And we'll have no talk about it going to New Zealand or some way crazy place... like... erm, England!

Yes mate! Yes! A bit of lateral thinking, and it`ll happen.  

Aren`t any of the Import Performance shop owners (in Australia of course!!!) interested in it?

i like you rezz :)

Originally posted by predator666

What I am wondering though, is it possible to achieve the same thing in Australia with the right amount of $ for a similar price of around $60k? Take a base GTR of say $20k (89 vehicle) and throw $40k at it, reckon you would get close to 1000hp ?

over $90,000 has been spent on that car (read the bit under the specs).

for $40K I reckon you could get close to 1000bhp.

How much as Leewah spent on his beast?

does the 15 year import rule apply to private imports? :)

Originally posted by Daz

You could always buy it and wait an extra year to bring it into Aus under the 15 year rule.

I would honourably extend my services in this regard, and take *utmost* care of said GT-R, washing, preening... lovingly turning over the engine;) daily, for the duration of a year, on behalf of the lucky would-be owner... free of charge...:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...