Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey im looking for some advice

Last night i installed a HKS2530 with 3" dump on my R32.

The turbo works a treat it pulls so much harder than the standard but i find at around 6,000rpm the engine cuts out completely.

it really freaked me out. I am running the same boost as i was with the std turbo (1bar).

So i decided to remove the bleed valve completely. it doesnt stall anymore at high rpm, but i do find the boost tends to creep above the 0.7bar... somtimes almost to 1bar.

*note: i am running a completely std computer.

so i have a few questions:

1: would the cut out be a fuel cut or something else?

2: is boost creep normal? it never happened with the std turbo.

3: even if i run standard boost is it possible for the car to run lean? does more dense air need more fuel?

any advice/info would be great!

thanks

Ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22256-high-rpm-engine-cut-out/
Share on other sites

im not very up to date with skyline ecu's etc , but with ur new turbo , it may reach the same psi , say 14 , as ur other one did , but the volume of air being pushed in will be far greater , due to the larger comp wheel etc etc etc.

therefore too much air , not enuf fuel , the computer might know to shut itself down before something bad happens , like i said i dont know much about skyline equipment so i am probably off track

yeah when it cuts out i mean it completely cuts out. like under full load its pulling really hard then all of a sudden nothing... as if i took my foot off the accelerator. it doesnt "die out" as such, it just cuts out very suddenly.

Sound more like fuel cut from overboost. You are probably not running the same boost after fitting a dump pipe. ie. Less back pressure=higher exhaust speed=more boost.

The solution is to lower boost until it doesn't happen, OR get a fuel cut defender combined with refueller (AFC or piggy back) to make sure you are not leaning out up top. Maybe the TSI which does both.

OVL-747... i have heard this before but get confused. i always though 14psi would be 14psi regardless of the type of turbo as pressure is pressure ie psi = pounds per square inch so regardless of what is producing that pressure it is infact the same pressure (does this make sense?)

however i do understand a bigger turbo will produce that equal pressure but the air will be much cooler. and cooler air is more dense...

so when ppl tell me that my turbo is producing the same pressure but pushing more air is that what they mean?

yes 14psi is 14psi , but there is a greater volume of air being pushed in , still at 14psi though.

its very similar to an oil pump , take and rb30 and an rb30t pump , they both have the same oil pressure , but as the turbo pump is bigger it flows that wee bit more oil , needed for turbo etc but still at the same pressure

Originally posted by bbenny

so when ppl tell me that my turbo is producing the same pressure but pushing more air is that what they mean?

yes - thats why it is extremely common to "hiflo" a turbo , basically , the larger wheels can push a larger volume of air , but it still enters at 14psi.

the more air (mixed with proper fuel setup of course) means greater combustion = more power.

but in ur case id say the computer may be sensing too much air , not enuf fuel so it cuts out intermittently.

Bbenny, I seem to be experiencing the same problem, just put in my 2535 and it does something very similar at about 1 bar it reaches full boost at ~3500rpm and then seems to bog down till it reaches ~6000rpm and then goes hard till rev limiter.

I can hear the turbo working hard but it doesnt seem to pull as hard as it should.

I boosted to 1.4 bar and when it reached ~4500 it fully cut out like when you hit speed limiter, so im tending to think it would have to be not enough fuel going in....

Might get it Dyno tuned and see how it goes maybe then get a bigger fuel pump...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...