Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

complete waste of time. they car is only fit for a japanese junkyard mate. and there are a lot of costs associate with shipping. it does not 'cost one grand to ship it over'. fixed costs with importing and complying a car run to over $8K so there is no point in buying a piece of rubbish for $1800. you may as well spend decently on the actual car and get something worth having.

yeah, importing a car can be very worthwhile but don't get sucked into just looking to get a cheap car cheaply. try and get a nice car and be prepared to spend a little extra to get that really nice, special car. Since the fixed costs associated with importing and complying cars are quite a lot it's not really worth importing cheap cars since the bulk of the money you are outlaying is paying for the freight, duties, agents, compliance etc. so you end up spending $10K to get a car that cost you $1K. For a 33 GTST I would probably look here as they are so cheap now. But for a nice GTR, or RX7 etc for sure consider importing.

RX-7s are pretty good value in Japan, vs what they fetch here.

My only other advice is to take the advice of people who have been importing for a while - the biggest dramas I see are usually caused when people who think they've found "a better way of doing things" than others in the industry. If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...