Auto To Maunal Conversion R33 S1

[iwantagtr]

G'day I have got a few questions to ask re auto to manual conversion on a r33 s1. I have done a search and can't find the info i need.

Q1 When placing the clutch pedal in do I have to remove the plate on the firewall covering up the clutch pedal assy. Or do i drill the plate using it as a template? I had a quick look today and it looks like i will have to pull the dash out is this correct or am I making more work for my self?

Q2 I bought a spiggot bush from REPCO and its awfuly tight, so tight in fact I can't get it started to knock into the back of the crank. I don't know if I have got the right spiggot bush or is there an auto bush that must be removed first? From what I can see there is a brass bush in the crank and it looks as though the manual spiggot bush should fit inside it.

Q3 Does anybody know what wires i have to bridge out so i can run the as normal using the auto computer? Does the auto wiring harness fit the maunal gearbox or do I have to modify it? If so does anyone have any diagrams?

Cheers any help would be much appreciated. Like I said I had a look throught the forums but couldn't find the answers to these questions. Please help if its to hard to explain please pm me your number and i will give you a call.

Cheers

[H@ME]

I know I may be bringing up an old thread but I'm doing something similar on my r33 series 1.5.

Want to know how to remove the auto spigot bush! It's not coming out!

Cheers in advance!

[zebra]

I know I may be bringing up an old thread but I'm doing something similar on my r33 series 1.5.

Want to know how to remove the auto spigot bush! It's not coming out!

Cheers in advance!

Fill back of crank with grease, Get a brass drift that matches the ID of the spigot, stick the drift in the hole and whack with a hammer.

Science happens and the bush pops out.

[GTSBoy]

Pack it full of grease then find a brass drift of almost the exact same diameter as the inside of the spigot bush* and whack it in with a hammer. The grease, being incompressible, should push on the back edge of the bush and push it out. Followed by a lot of grease!

[GTSBoy]

Ha ha. Great minds.

[zebra]

[Ben C34]

Lube and ram a shaft in it.

[Jordy32]

Auto spigot was an absolute bitch to get out, either use the grease method, or drill into the sides of it and cave it into itself with chisel and pull it out.

I tried to use a 3 jaw puller on it, but there wasn't enough of a lip for it to grab, drilling into it and caving it in on itself however worked perfectly

[H@ME]

Yeah it's an absolute prick!

I have done research on the grease method and understand it fully. It seems to work s treat on the manual spigot bush as there is space behind it where the incomparable substance can push the spigot out however with the AUTO one there is no space behind it so I don't think the grease method will work?

Anyone here removed the rb25det auto spiggot using the grease method? I'm starting to think to use a tap or grind it down and collapse - just done want to damage any of the crank.

[GTSBoy]

I greased mine out (RB20 auto).

[H@ME]

Thanks guys. So can I confirm something. I've done heaps of manuals before which are the brass spigots. With the auto's they have the steel spigot (pictured here on the outside) with my chisel marks on it.

There is like NO gap between it and the crank. So grease will push this bastard out?

[GTSBoy]

The manual spigot bush should be longer than the auto one. That means that there should be a shoulder surface on the back of the auto spigot for the grease to push against when you bang the punch in through the end.

[H@ME]

Okay I'll give it a shot and report back!

[Jordy32]

In theory yes, but i did this about 2 weeks ago and the auto spigot was almost sitting flush with the crank, i could hardly feel the lip with my finger let alone get any tension on it with a tool or puller or anything, drove me absolutely insane

I'd suggest drilling one or more holes in the front face of it horizontally in line with the engine to weaken the circle and then caving it in on itself from the top. I tried just chiseling it, but being a perfect circle very tightly pressed into a hole it's incredibly supported/strong and you'll find it will either chip the spigot or your chisel!

Wish i knew that before starting mine, almost went insane lol

[GTSBoy]

Um....the grease pushes on the BACK of the bush. The outside flushness matter not.

[H@ME]

So I tried the grease method this evening with NO luck I used a 3/8 extension and a 9/16 socket which was perfect inner diameter. It did not budge a bit...think this is because I had a good go a bashing it prior. The extension just kept spitting back out of the socket. Looks like I will drill it out and cave it?

[zebra]

Socket?

[GTSBoy]

Yes. Um. What? My 9/16 socket is 20mm OD. As far as I can recall, the OD of the auto spigot is ~20mm and the ID is significantly less. So how the hell is any 9/16 socket supposed to fit inside the auto spigot bush?

From what I'm hearing, it sounds like THERE IS NO SPIGOT BUSH installed in that crank.

[H@ME]

Yes. Um. What? My 9/16 socket is 20mm OD. As far as I can recall, the OD of the auto spigot is ~20mm and the ID is significantly less. So how the hell is any 9/16 socket supposed to fit inside the auto spigot bush?

From what I'm hearing, it sounds like THERE IS NO SPIGOT BUSH installed in that crank.

Hey man, have a look at photo above.. That is the 10mm deep auto spiggot is it not? And my apologies all it was a 13mm socket. Edited April 11, 2015 by H@ME

[H@ME]

All done.. Manual conversion completed. Used a 3mm drill but and cold chisel to remove the auto spiggot. Used a 32mm hole saw for the clutch master in flywheel. Was perfect. All done now. Wasn't that hard!