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255/40/17's On 17x9 +35 R32 Gts-t

falcon
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falcon Contributor

falcon

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So I am just about to pick up some second hand wheels for track/autoslalom use. They are the good old 5zigen Fno1r in 17x9 +35 all around. Now the tires the previous owner was running were 235/40's and he said he had no problem fitting them without a roll. Now

I want to move up a bit in size, and I was thinking of some new Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs in 255/40/17. I know they will fit the wheels no problem, as a matter of fact this is pretty much the proper size for a 9" wheel. Are there any guys running this same set-up (dosent matter what model tire, just the tire size) and if so how much rolling was needed? Light... heavy... or even a pull/flare?

As for suspension, I am running KYB Climb Gear shocks (very stiff) with RS*R springs (about a 1.5-2'' drop). Settings will be back at -3 for camber in the front with a -1.5 in the back. Castor will be set to +6ish.

Am I really far off or is this doable with a light roll? I don't want any rubbing because it's going to be a competition AutoX wheel/tire setup.

Here is a photo of the wheels on the old owners car with 235/40's.

2002282924937661714_rs.jpg

Here is my car currently running stock Gts-t wheels with 215/45/16 Falken RT-615 tires, is it doable?

n1637340001_6420_5517.jpg

2485181043_427d05dfe0_o.jpg

THANKS!

Edited by falcon
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falcon Contributor

falcon

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it depend's on how low and stiff you suspension.

i had the same wheel and tyre size and had to whack the lip up maybe 5mm....

How stiff were you? I don't mind doing a 5mil pull but that is kind of my limit. I'm starting to think it may be better to run 245's. The Direzza's fit wide like an rt-615 so that may be enough. I just want to squeeze in as much tire as I can because I'm tired of understeer and loosing. I drove a BMW 328is with 285 Hancook's with the same suspension settings... and WOW. For a less powerful car I shaved 4 seconds off my time.

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

fronts u will almost certainly have issues, a good rule to follow by is a 17x9 +30 with a 235/45 tyre is the least amount of inner clearance u want up the front. the upper control arm is the limiting factor, ive run the above specs and there was only mm's separating the tyre from the UCA. so +35 and 255/45, i cant see it fitting. the guards u may have issues depending on the suspension, but u will need at least a roll.

rears u will need a roll as well, inner clearance on suspension is fine.

falcon Contributor

falcon

Posted
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fronts u will almost certainly have issues, a good rule to follow by is a 17x9 +30 with a 235/45 tyre is the least amount of inner clearance u want up the front. the upper control arm is the limiting factor, ive run the above specs and there was only mm's separating the tyre from the UCA. so +35 and 255/45, i cant see it fitting. the guards u may have issues depending on the suspension, but u will need at least a roll.

rears u will need a roll as well, inner clearance on suspension is fine.

I actually just read your post again and saw something. You are running a 235 45, but I will be running a 40 series. That should have a fair amount of difference. I'm starting to think that by adding all the different stories here, I think a 245/40 may be the best idea and if I have to, run a 5 mil spacer in the front.

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

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Posted
I opened them up by putting the headlight in the oven for a little while (to soften the glue) and painted the main surround matte black and repainted the silver pieces silver. It gives it a bit of a meaner look I think.

Loving life..

Gonna try that..

falcon Contributor

falcon

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Ya basically pull of all the rubber parts, and take out all the bulbs. Then throw it in the oven at 200F for about half an hour. Then it takes a bit of coaxing to get them apart.

Take apart the stuff on the inside. The part I painted black was the main LARGE peice of plastic. I also painted the metal cone shaped part that it on the low beam area with a silver colored paint because the stock paint was starting to peel. Be careful to not break any tabs they are VERY fragile.

Once you are happy with the results and have put the insides back in, CLEAN EVERYTHING with a microfiber town. I missed one of my low beam projectors and there is a finger print on it now. Also make sure there are no peices of dust or finger prints on the inside of the glass, or they will always be there.

You need to remove all the old silicone, and re seal it with black silicone. Don't use the clear stuff, it dosen't seal as well.

Thanks basically it.

-Aaron

Edited by falcon
falcon Contributor

falcon

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So I just went for it and ordered the 255/40/17 Toyo R888. They will fit the rear fine, but I will most likely need to run a 10mm spacer on the front which is fine. I found some nice hubcentric ones that will do the trick nicely.

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
I actually just read your post again and saw something. You are running a 235 45, but I will be running a 40 series. That should have a fair amount of difference. I'm starting to think that by adding all the different stories here, I think a 245/40 may be the best idea and if I have to, run a 5 mil spacer in the front.

a 255/40 has roughly the same size profile height as a 235/45. ud be better off putting a good quality 235 on there, 235's are usually a fair bit cheaper then 255's.

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
So I just went for it and ordered the 255/40/17 Toyo R888. They will fit the rear fine, but I will most likely need to run a 10mm spacer on the front which is fine. I found some nice hubcentric ones that will do the trick nicely.

have u got extended studs? factory studs will not fit a 10mm slip on, and 10mm is too small for a bolt on spacer.

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