Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have seen that there is a new range of Nvidia GEforce cards as well.... somthing like GX2 series.... for like $800!!?? is this because of DDR5 RAM? bugger and i thought my 9800GTX was good but looks like the world of gaming is still going strong, just as you buy something good it becomes outdated :-)

Well if its the 9800GX2, thats becially two 8800GT cores stuck on one PCB, so its like SLI on 1 card. Last time I checked the price was $650 - $800 depending on what brand & where you buy it from. A friend bought a generic branded one for $650

The other card I can think that costs $800+ would be the the new GTX280.

But like pkblade said, the 4870 is the best $ for performance card atm.

got my 4870 card last night.... and wow... play UT3 on max everything (AA and AF) its amazing, im only running it on medium res atm coz my screen doesnt support the higher settings (next thing on the list). its idles hot but under load it doesnt get much hotter.

people will say because the temp is high its a shit card, but under load other cards temps will climb to just as high.

i couldnt get the MSI card so i bought xpertvision, they are only reference cards atm so they are all the same just different stickers ;p

next test is COD 4 tonight!

just like to thank tangles for putting my pc together the other day :-) twin gt8800 in sli hdd set up in raid this thing goes like a cat with deep heat on it;s nuts can play games in high settings now with no shuttering or lag next week comes the 22 inch moniter and g15 keyboard and it's all complete thanks again mate it really is appreciated

cheers mid life crisis

i just got my new setup, pretty similar....wooot

im waiting for gears of war 2 to come out, should be really good if the first one is anything to go off....

what servers do people usually play on for cod 4?

Edit : i got bored so this is my setup - what do people think

case - 300 by antec

motherboard - ga-ma790x-ds4 by gigabyte

cpu - am2+ 9850 phenom by amd

hdd - 500gb by wester digital

dvd- lg

graphics card - 9600gt-e3 512mb

psu - game power 750w

total $1548

mouse + keyboard - G9 +g15

total $200

monitor - 22" asus

total $365 (with free keyboard and mouse)

Grand total - too much

i love it, plays all my games on max graphics settings, no lag or anything :D

Edited by Gus-

nice setup there Gus!

Why did you go the AMD in the end and not the dual core extreeeeeeeeme?

nothing wrong with your decision what so ever, just interested as to why thats all :-)

Mayuri - yeah the GTX280 is the one i was referring to, might see if that comes down somewhat in the future..... I have now sold my skyline so instead of modding the line the modding will be done to the pc :-) I was about to clock my cpu then realised my 480wat psu that comes with the case aint going to take much more, so am going to get corsair psu plus a nice little fan lcd controller for the front of the case.

Also talking about gfx cards my friend recently clocked his, clocked the mhz on it but recons he didnt really get much diffference, is there a lot to be had clocking gfx cards or should clocking just stick with the main cpu of the system ie dual core. I read your thread before and they had recommend clocking the gfx card even had a link for a prog that assisted in clocking it for you.

I was about to clock my cpu then realised my 480wat psu that comes with the case aint going to take much more, so am going to get corsair psu plus a nice little fan lcd controller for the front of the case.

25GTT please tell me you arent running your new setup on 480w PSU :S depending on the brand i dont think your PSU will b giving your hardware enough amps, especially your prescious GTX O.o

got my 4870 card last night.... and wow... play UT3 on max everything (AA and AF) its amazing, im only running it on medium res atm coz my screen doesnt support the higher settings (next thing on the list). its idles hot but under load it doesnt get much hotter.

people will say because the temp is high its a shit card, but under load other cards temps will climb to just as high.

i couldnt get the MSI card so i bought xpertvision, they are only reference cards atm so they are all the same just different stickers ;p

next test is COD 4 tonight!

sweet....can't wait to get mine, also, the new > Arctic Cooling Accelero twin turbo is something I'm lookin into to keep it chilled :blink:. So, did it live up to expectation in COD 4? and just for reference what card did you have prior to this one?

COD 4 MAX everything, its unreal. lol, my sister came into my room and says "what movie is this?", i lold IRL.

im getting about 60fps on max everything so its pretty awesome. if i lowered the rez to 1024x860 or something id get near 100.

i had an NX8600gts, brilliant card. did its job well. cod4 medium graphics.

yourself? what are you running atm pkblade?

*ahem* :D yes Joel I am using the 480w with the 9800GTX, i used the online calculator here:

http://www.extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp

It shows my system should be runing at 440w. doesnt tell you though if that is 440 under heavy load, hmmmm do you think under heavly load the gfx would chew up an extra 40w??

yeah it is low though i do agree which is why i should really order a new psu quite soon before i start ocing.

good news!! I just finished Crysis!! :-) Now I am starting company of heroes getting back into a strategy game again

*ahem* :D yes Joel I am using the 480w with the 9800GTX, i used the online calculator here:

http://www.extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp

It shows my system should be runing at 440w. doesnt tell you though if that is 440 under heavy load, hmmmm do you think under heavly load the gfx would chew up an extra 40w??

Yeah, I would say thats about right, even a dual graphics card system will rarely chew up more than 600w on full load, but theres more to that then simple watts.

The main thing with psu is that no PSU is 100% efficient, general ones are around 70% efficiency & the good ones are ~80%, however even this various slightly depending on factors like load, efficiency etc etc. Someone here whos a electircal degree can probably explain better.

Also, like many other things in the computer industry, many "cheapo" powersupply "fake" the wattage rating in a way that they PSU can only sustain the calimed power output for a limited about of time b4 dying. One example I can think of is the crappy 430w PSU that came with the Soprano case, it really is a rebranded 350w PSU & testing has shown that the PSU quickly failed when its loaded closer to that limit of 430w.

If your 480w is a good brand PSU with a high amp rating on the 12v rail (this is very important), then it should be fine, otherwise consider getting a higher wattage one with a good amp output on the 12v rail (like the cosiar one, forgot the model #... think theres a 550w model & a 620w model).

yeah i have seen some nice corsair psu's on www.pccasegear.com.au

Only thing I am worried about is becuase my pc is so new if i change around the PSU and something goes wrong netplus might turn around and say its the new PSU's fault. might have to pay them the extra $40 for installation of it even though its a piece of pi$$ that way they cant turn around to me and point the finger if somehting goes wrong, that is also why i still have not oc'd the pc yet always good to make sure everything runs well for a bit first of all :-)

Any upgrade PSU's you would recommend from here? www.netplus.com.au they did have some corsairs but it looks like they had taken them off???

or i wonder if they would let me get PLE to install as they are also quite good.

Netplus have the 620w cosiar ones back in stock; heres the Link.

The good thing I like about the Cosiar is that is pretty much the best one value for $ one, good power rating, triple 12v rails (gives 60 amps combined I think), all the extra "fancy" PSU features like active PFC, 80%+ efficiency & it has detachable cables so you won't get messy cables all over the place (unlike my PC atm :)), also it should also give you enough headroom should you wish to upgrade to dual video cards later down the track.

Think I'll pick up one when netplus have the antec 1200 case back in stock. ;), then I'll start my way of adding 2x750Gb Hard drives & breaking the 2TB barrier for my com :D

Edited by Mayuri Krab

^^ won't be too long before SAU will be using you as their server :D. Yeah the modular PSU are a nice feature to keep things tidy and provided you don't regularly upgrade or like rearranging things in the case.

Think the 9800GTX would easily require min 400'ishW to run a game at load & the other few basic components.

Like Mayuri Krab mentioned when looking for a PSU, most of the better model brand names have good power efficiency (80%) and, also, importantly usually rate their units at continuous power (eg. Coolermaster RealPower Pro 650W has a peak power upwards of 780W) and not peak power, which the generic models & brands tend to do (eg. Shaw). Some other reputable brands not already mentioned are - Antec, Seasonic and SilverStone. You should find plenty of reviews on their various models.

joel - currently have the 8800GS but now that I've gone from a dual 19" to single 24" screen (tis also used for watching HDTV) I wanted something better for the higher res and settings.

  • 1 month later...

Well finalllly did the mods i wanted!!

Went the Corsair 620W moduler PSU

RED Scorpion Xigmatek CPU cooler (Toms hardware choice of 2008)

And the Zalman fan speed controller! I absolutely love this! adds some real LCD bling to the front of my case, looks really cool!

So have now just completed a very gentle clock in the BIOS from the dual core standard of 3gig, up to a gentle 3.29g

Strange thing though is the prog CPU-Z which monitors your cpu speed was showing 3.29 and has now just gone down to 2.19??? is that because it is resting? in my windows vista PC details however it constantly sits at 3.29..... quite strange really.

Also can someone tell me if when i do raise it through BIOS does that also mean the Graphics card AND ram gets clocked up as well? if so there would then be no point in seperately clocking the gfx card?

THanks all :-)

What you need to do is disable speed stepping in your bios!

And no your ram graphics cards bus speed won't go up, in the old days these things are worked together but the cpu has it's own bus speed now.

Cheers Kralster, yeah just checked my ESIT which is the stepping controller you were talking about, basically from what i could read on it is that the CPU's now only hit max when then need to then they just go to an idle cpu speed so to speak.

Is it bad if it is continually stepping when loading? i guess it has always done it but up to 3gig before so it should be ok??

Strange one as i then checked mine and it was disabled, I am going to have a look in BIOS again in a sec.

Also what is interesting, is that idle on these e8400's is mid 40' degree's. more around the 45 - 48 degree mark. THat seems quite high compared to my old Pent 4 i had before this one, but what is more interested is when these things are clocked there really isnt a huge temp increase like the old P4, so even though it idles hotter, when clocked it only goes up 2 - 3 degrees at idle. I am also using a program called OCCT which is stressing the RAM and CPU whilst i type this, sitting quite comfortably on 59 degrees and i have only seen it hit 60 once for a very brief second. Most of the tests in reviews shows these E8400's doing 3.6g but i dont like pushing things too far for longevity, plus ihave the aftermarket cooling so about 3.4g - 3.5g should be nice....its funny as the E8600 which is a 3.3 gig costs an extra $150 than my chip :-) Value for money the 8400's are Schweeeeet!

You will find that increasing your FSB to OC your CPU won't affect your temps by much, its when you increase the voltages (to sustain stability for a higher OC) thats when you start getting significant temp increases.

Are you using the motherboard's auto OC feature thats like all you gotta do is increase the FSB or are you setting all the parameters by urself?

Coz if you are using the auto feature, most motherboard will "play it safe" & also up the voltage & several other parameters as soon as it detects increased FSB, if you do all the parameters urself you can probably overclock it to 3.4 - 3.6Ghz on stock voltages.

& no continuos use of the stepping & loading won't damage your CPU, its want its designed to do.

EDIT: Just skimmed this thread from the beginning & remembered that you got this DS3, similar board to mine (DS3-P) & if you OCed it just by increasing the FSB & left the other parameters to auto, then the mobo have most probably also increased the various voltages, so thats probably why your temp is a bit high.

What you need to do is disable speed stepping in your bios!

And no your ram graphics cards bus speed won't go up, in the old days these things are worked together but the cpu has it's own bus speed now.

When you up the FSB, on the intel chipset mobos, your RAM speed will still go up if you leave the mobo on auto mode, this is done in order to keep the FSB:DRAM ratio. You can unOC the ram by changing this ratio.

Last time I checked only the high end Nvidia chipset mobos (680, 780, 790s) have a feature that can "unlink" the ram from the system FSB.

As with the video card, increasing the FSB won't affect the cards clock speed or Ram speed, however if you leave the PCI-E clock to "auto" then it MAY get upped, this should be aovided at all cost (by manually setting this parameter to 100mhz) as an increased PCI-E clock is know to cause all sorts of problems with various video cards.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

OK so am changing it to PCIE to 100mhz, so just to check again, if i put that up to say 105 mhz does that mena i have now clocked the graphics card?

What is an ok limit to make that PCIE number up to do you think?

Have used google and i see some people running at 110 mhz. Also a guy clocked my combo to 4.0 after he changed the RAM settings, i have now intention of stressing my CPU that much, but if he did those numbers would his PCIE mhz be screwed? the thread made no mention of him changing his PCIE mhz

thread here: http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthre...4594&page=3

I just cant beleive this guy was clocking it to like 3.7 of the standard 380w PSU i think it was..... crazy!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...