Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

haha love the good old oil and coolant slick underneath.

that is a mad angle - we tried this once and got it back in but bent the cross member on the way. the trust sump makes it another 15cm harder.

haha love the good old oil and coolant slick underneath.

that is a mad angle - we tried this once and got it back in but bent the cross member on the way. the trust sump makes it another 15cm harder.

i imagine the sump would so! notice we 'jacked' the rear and front to get clearance for the gearbox to travel under the car, we had to jack the front regardless because the suspension hit the crane

for searches im gonna keyword this;

GTR ENGINE REMOVAL RB26 RB26DETT

hehe gonna work on a guide using pics from the workshop manual as well to put something easy together soon, probably as it goes back in and i'll take photos of the assembly going back together

on a side note I was missing the nut at the bottom of the left coilover, f**king disgusted the last 2-3 tyres stores that have fitted tyres and looked at my continuous misalignment problem have not noticed this

bit off topic, but,,, isnt that a vitality matress and a MArconi bed frame from amart is it ;)

is it? know anyone who can get me a a side frame support rail? i sort of had a couple people jump on me when sitting on the side and it bent it

good info, i find the same angle works a treat but the trolley jacks are always too high to hold under the rear of the box so we made up a small flat tray on wheels pretty much 20mm from the ground and sit the rear of the box on that to bring it in and out and it works great, ill get a pic soon and post it up if anyone else is keen on the idea :)

good info, i find the same angle works a treat but the trolley jacks are always too high to hold under the rear of the box so we made up a small flat tray on wheels pretty much 20mm from the ground and sit the rear of the box on that to bring it in and out and it works great, ill get a pic soon and post it up if anyone else is keen on the idea :)

please do

this is the little trolley for the box to sit on i made, its basic and the box sits in the recesses section and its only about 10mm from the floor so its as low as u can get it, it handles the box weight no worries to. I even use it to sit the box on when its off the motor and i wanna move the box around in the garage. The wheels are cheap ones from Bunnings, nuthin special, the other week i sat the complete rb26 motor on it to wheel it into the shed and it didnt break lol.

post-40430-1213789865_thumb.jpgpost-40430-1213789880_thumb.jpg

post-40430-1213789894_thumb.jpgpost-40430-1213789912_thumb.jpg

ive also made a special swivel setup on a trolley jack to help remove the gearbox from the motor while its in the car, it makes spinning the box around to clear the starter motor bulge on the trans tunnel really easy.

As u can probably tell ive had alot of chances to remove rb26's and probably done the engine in and out 40 times or more and also the box in and out the car about 15-20 times on the garage floor, so making these little things helps when it comes around to doing it next time :laugh:

Edited by unique1
love that little trolley :P nice work .. i'd just add some rubber on the base plate and give it a coat of paint ;)

lol thanks, it gets the job done i save the detailing for the engine and car, its a home workshop so i gotta make the equipment look backyard spec as well :ninja:

it could be a prototype and could be a best seller for gtr owners if i painted it up shiny ;)

Edited by unique1
lol thanks, it gets the job done i save the detailing for the engine and car, its a home workshop so i gotta make the equipment look backyard spec as well :ninja:

it could be a prototype and could be a best seller for gtr owners if i painted it up shiny ;)

not only GTR owners either :P

same goes for Keepers engine leveler ;)

not only GTR owners either :P

same goes for Keepers engine leveler ;)

the blue thing to bolt the engine onto?

borrowed it from a 180 owner, without it the job would have been near impossible, or are you refeering to the rear wheels jacked up on wood and forklift tyne extenders??? :ninja:

trolley is cool tho

would instructions and details be useful you thing guys?

I'd personally always prefer to remove the box and engine separetly, easier and less chance of damage occuring. But each to their own. Really depends what your plans are for the job. If its just a matter of wrecking the car into parts then you may aswell do it that way but not otherwise.

I'd personally always prefer to remove the box and engine separetly, easier and less chance of damage occuring. But each to their own. Really depends what your plans are for the job. If its just a matter of wrecking the car into parts then you may aswell do it that way but not otherwise.

its easy to get it in, in one lot, just need a mate to guide it in, its just a matter of not going like a bull at a gate and all is well :geek: putting the box back in under the car is a pain in the arse if u do them seperately, id rather do the motor out than the box lol, heavy suckers they are, i weighed mine last time and it was about 88kg from memory. This is all of course if u dont have a hoist to use, if u do have one then the box is easier with a transmission jack.

hmmm the blue thing you used to shift the angle. my dad made 1 of them up but a little more technical. he used a peice of c channel, blanked the ends off with plate. drilled holes in the plate at both ends. put a long peice of M16-M20 threaded rod through the full length and welded a big nut on 1 end. and on the inside he put to big lumps of steel inside and welded nuts on them i think.

so all you had to do is put a rattle gun on the end of the rod and you could move the mounting points to any point along the shaft to get any angle. i'll take a photo if i remember to better descripe it. its sooo simple but sooo ingenious.

chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...