Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas... Again

partyboy73

By partyboy73,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
Posted

I have just installed a Tomei hicas electronic lock on my 32 but I cant get the bastard into diagnostic mode to do the next step which is putting the shims in the rack.. I thought I could remove the lines and move the rack by hand then just bleed the system but if anyone has a better idea I'm all ears...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224413-hicas-again/
Share on other sites
partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Better off gettin a lock bar cheap as! :P

Only reason I did'nt go with the lock bar at first is because its defectable and very detectable.. The shim kit I have hides under the racks boots and the electronic lock is tucked away, so you'd have to do some serious messing around to find that its been locked out.... All I need to do is get the bastards in tho! Think I might try some more this weekend to get it into mode and failing that I'll just pull the lines and deal with the mess...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224413-hicas-again/#findComment-3957965
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted (edited)

haha, i had the same problem with my R33 (i know it's related to R32) , the shims won't fit and according to the manual, you have to loosen the nuts from both sides by 6mm and slide the shims inside then tighten them back. I think you need to remove the battery terminals to cut power to the hicas motor as well. I got a JP guy to translate what was needed. I know these instruction are for R33 but they may serve as a reference for R32 owners.

post-48477-1216546276_thumb.jpg

post-48477-1216546328_thumb.jpg

post-48477-1216546602_thumb.jpg

Edited by teng
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224413-hicas-again/#findComment-4024951
Share on other sites
partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My problem is that I cant seem to get it into hicas mode to make the rack move so I can put the second shim in... still thinking of just letting the pressure out of the rack with what looks like a bleed valve on the rack itself, then moving it by hand... not 100% sure but wont be doing it for a while yet (no time)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224413-hicas-again/#findComment-4028111
Share on other sites
THENIG Community Regular

THENIG

Posted
Posted

I followed the directions that were given out exactly and all i got was really light power steering for the first few seconds of driving and then heavy power steering until i turned the car off again, and after a few months a leaky PS pump. I pulled the tomei box back out, left the shims in and the plug the instructions tell you to leave disconnected. I have no HICAS light on my dashboard showing either.

I would love to hear if someone has had success in putting this thing into a 32 and having no problems with it months after they have followed those instructions, and are still having no problems months down the track. I have been told they are for R33's only, I will pay someone to wire mine in if they know what they are doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224413-hicas-again/#findComment-4028746
Share on other sites
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Do you have a picture of the wiring under the parcel shelf?? Did you follow the instructions in the link?? I would love to see where i went wrong?

I don't have a photo - it is not that interesting.

The instruction I used were the ones in the kit from Tomei. I just got the colours translated from Kanji to Engrish & the wiring was done accordingly.

If you want to check your install I would check two things.

1. Use google to make sure the wire colours are correct ie the Japanese lines up with the Engrish which in turn lines up with the bit of kit.

2. Make sure you weren't looking at the plug connector upside down or whatever.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224413-hicas-again/#findComment-4028919
Share on other sites
THENIG Community Regular

THENIG

Posted
Posted
I don't have a photo - it is not that interesting.

The instruction I used were the ones in the kit from Tomei. I just got the colours translated from Kanji to Engrish & the wiring was done accordingly.

If you want to check your install I would check two things.

1. Use google to make sure the wire colours are correct ie the Japanese lines up with the Engrish which in turn lines up with the bit of kit.

2. Make sure you weren't looking at the plug connector upside down or whatever.

Cheers, thanks mate will do. I think maybe there was some uncertainty about if the diagram was looking at the box or at the plug.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224413-hicas-again/#findComment-4028986
Share on other sites
partyboy73 Rising Star

partyboy73

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you look up to and3 3's post he has the link for the pdf file on this which will give you the colours in english. As for the right wires to splice them into, you need to look at the diagram of the plugs and you will see it has a dark patch indicating the plugs clip, all you do is look at the plug, then the picture, and count how many wiring spaces there are from the clip to the end of the plug.. Ie: oooo####oo The plug is not symetrical so you can work out which way you are meant to be looking at it in comparison to the diagram (cant remember which way at the moment :thumbsup: ) then you just need to follow the direction of the wires in the diagram Ie: If it shows an arrow going to a box then the arrow is a male connector you put on and the box is its female friend and vise versa. Not 100% sure but I recon the direction that its wired would make a difference. Hope this is understandable and helps you out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224413-hicas-again/#findComment-4030631
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...